Page 86 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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GREAT JOURNEYS The Apolobamba Trek

vs the Inca Trail

The masterwork of the Inca Empire is an enormous 14,000-mile (22,530-km) network of roads built eight centuries ago. Trekkers
have thoroughly tramped the 25-mile (40-km) section leading to Machu Picchu – it’s time to discover the rest of the route

The Cordillera Apolobamba is a national protected stopover where trekkers can catch trout for their
NEED TO KNOW
area of Bolivia, established to conserve the natural supper barehanded in the Atumpampa river.
LOCATION The Cordillera resources and biodiversity of the region. Of the Although this 71-mile (115-km) trek can be
Apolobamba is in western
Bolivia, north of Lake Titicaca various trekking routes that traverse the range, the tackled in either direction, the south-to-north option
1&36
and near the Peruvian border $03%*--&3" most popular is a 5-day trek connecting the villages offers great views that improve daily and passes that
"10-0#".#" #3";*-
VISITORS PER YEAR of Curva and Pelechuco, through Andean highlands increase in elevation, with the Sunchuli pass, the
-BLF
Even the most popular trek in 5JUJDBDB -B 1B[ 4BOUB $SV[ where the Kallawayas, a group of traditional healers highest of the whole trek at 16,600 ft (5,060 m),
the area is undertaken by fewer
than 500 people every year 4VDSF who performed brain surgery 1,000 years ago and coming near the end of the journey. Soon after this
#0-*7*"
CLIMATE You’re in the tropics, were the first in the world to use penicillin and you’ll come to the village of Pelechuco, which was
but at this elevation it’s chilly all year, 1"3"(6": quinine, still practice their healing craft and rituals. founded in 1560 by Jesuit missionaries and still relies
with sub-arctic conditions higher up $)*-& "3(&/5*/"
After leaving the hilltop village of Curva, views on small-scale goldmining as its economic base.
of Akamani, the sacred mountain of the Kallawayas, While most guides treat Pelechuco as the end of
Once the largest nation on earth, the Inca Empire loom large. From here the elevation of the trek the trek, another hour on to Agua Blanca will take
stretched for 2,500 miles (4,000 km) along South stays almost entirely above 13,125 ft (4,000 m) and you to the ruins of Huatara and a comfortable hostel
America’s Andean backbone. Its ancient highways, the stunning mountain views are accompanied by for the final night. Although the trek covers wild
many of which cross mountain passes over 16,000 ft beautiful waterfalls and glacial lakes. Domesticated and remote terrain, the route is well marked and
(5,000 m) high, were superbly successful in nurturing alpacas and llamas graze the high grasslands and promoted in sufficient detail that it can be done
trade and communications throughout the far-flung sightings of wild vicuñas, viscachas, and condors independently. But for a small additional cost, you
empire. If you long to explore this ancient road are expected. Elusive pumas and spectacled can arrange to have a well-informed local guide
network without the crowds of the Inca Trail, then bears still roam the most remote regions of and an arriero (muleteer) to tend to the pack animals.
head to Bolivia’s Cordillera Apolobamba, which will the Apolobamba range. The settlement at Using these local guides, who operate under the
lead you across high terrain and into the remarkably Jatunpampa, inhabited by three families and their auspices of the park, also provides needed
unchanged world of today’s Inca descendants. sheep, alpacas, and horses, is a convenient employment and economic benefit to the isolated
communities of the Cordillera Apolobamba.

FORGET THE INCA TRAIL?
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
THE BUILD-UP Peru’s legendary Inca Trail starts in the Sacred
Valley of the Urubamba river and culminates with the descent Getting There and Around Where to Eat
into the magnificent ruins of Machu Picchu. There is some From La Paz, a bus runs three Your most rewarding meal will
outstanding Andean scenery and mountainous jungle trekking times a week on a 12-hour trip come at the end of a trek in front
of the fireplace at the Agua Blanca
to the Curva starting point and
along the way, but the major draw is Machu Picchu. returns daily from Pelechuco. A hostel. The menu depends on
private 4WD vehicle and driver what arrives by bus, but generally
THE LETDOWN Now so heavily traveled that you need a can also be arranged in La Paz at includes llama or lamb.
reservation months in advance just to get your foot on the path, a significantly higher cost. When to Go
the trail is overrun with as many tour guides and operators as Where to Stay Trekking is great here at any
hikers, and its camp sites are crowded and dirty – hardly a Community-run hostels in time, but the mildest, driest
wilderness experience. The constant influx has led the government Lagunilla (10 minutes on foot weather is from January to April
to impose a limit of 400 visitors per day and hefty entrance fees. from Curva) and Agua Blanca (an and in October and November.
hour on foot from Pelechuco) Budget per Day for Two
ABOVE A tour group arriving at Machu Picchu on offer simple, comfortable
GOING ANYWAY? Consider a day-long trek to Machu Picchu the Inca Trail, Peru Less than US$60 including
dormitory accommodations, hot
beginning at Kilometre 104 on the railway line. You’ll pass the accommodations, a guide, pack
showers, and meals. Neither burros, and bus to and from La Paz.
breathtaking ruins at Wiñay Wayna and the dramatic Sun Gate along the way, and still have a day or more to hostel has a website or requires a
explore Machu Picchu. If you opt for this route, you won’t have to stay at any of the trail’s crowded camp sites. reservation, so just pitch up if Website
you need a bed for the night. www.trekapolobamba.com

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