Page 90 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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GREAT JOURNEYS Coastal Route 15

vs Route 66

ABOVE Traffic on Chicago’s Michigan Avenue, part of the
erstwhile Route 66
Think the fabled US Route 66 is the ultimate road trip? Think again: sun, sand, and
endless stretches of coastal beauty make Mexico’s Coastal Route 15 a better choice FORGET ROUTE 66?

THE BUILD-UP Up until a few decades ago, the
famous Route 66, or “Main Street America” as
passing through the city of Hermosillo before
NEED TO KNOW it was then known, cut across the mid-western
reaching the brilliant blue coast in Guaymas. and southwestern United States in a wide arc,
LOCATION Stretching Making it this far is an adventure in itself, as you
from the border town of starting in Chicago and ending in Santa
/PHBMFT 6 4 "
Nogales to Tepic, Route 15 cross paths with venomous Gila monsters, Monica, California. An entire popular culture
runs halfway down Mexico’s
$0"45"- roadrunners, and the occasional vulture circling grew up around this legendary route, and to
Pacific coast 3065& (VMG PG this day, it continues to be the best-known road
VISITORS PER YEAR Tens .FYJDP overhead. This is the Wild West of legend, brought
.&9*$0 in the country.
of thousands, but few drive the to life in front of your eyes, before it gives way to
entire 600-mile (1,000-km) distance 5FQJD .FYJDP $JUZ the cooling sight of the Pacific Ocean glinting ahead.
THE LETDOWN There’s just one problem,
DAYTIME TEMPERATURES "DVQVMDP From here onward, it’s mostly a coastal road,
Hot (79°F/26°C) and humid, but 1 BDJöD and it’s a big one – Route 66 no longer exists.
0D F B O
moderated on the coast by the ocean the likes of which you will never forget. A hundred It hasn’t for more than two decades. Parts of
or more kilometers brings you to the city of
it are still around as state roads (not interstate
Mazatlán, the “Pearl of the Pacific,” with more than highways), but the iconic cross-country route
There are few places in the world where you can 12 miles (20 km) of uninterrupted beaches, one of has been renamed and chopped up into
drive for hours on end with the open expanse of the longest stretches of sand in the world. Quaint unrecognizable bits. In theory, yes, you can
the ocean on one side and everything from desert little fishing villages and plenty of classic Mexican follow the original trail, but it would not be
landscapes to tropical forests on the other. Of the scenery lie ahead before Route 15 veers inward the same thing.
handful of such routes that still remain, the little- again to the east and heads toward Tepic. But you
known coastal portion of Mexico’s Route 15 is one can continue south along the coast on Route 200 GOING ANYWAY? At least the memory of this
of the best anywhere. It’s a journey you can make and reach the resorts collectively known as the Big old route survives, and it’s online to boot.
Check out the wonderful “The Mother Road:
in as little as five days, or take six months to savor. Five. Live it up at Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo, Ixtapa,
Historic Route 66” website (www.historic66.
Along the way, you’ll see what’s left of old Mexico – Acapulco, and Puerto Escondido – before finally
com), which even has step-by-step directions for
sadly, soon to be lost forever – and some memorable driving onto the border with Guatemala.
retracing the former asphalt glory.
landscapes. The views are punctuated by tiny
seaside pueblos (houses) and colonial villages, PRACTICAL INFORMATION
endless fields of blue agave, prehistoric landscapes,
Toltec ruins, and, farther south, several of the Getting There and Around Where to Stay
You can either start this road trip in There are many accommodations
world’s most famous ocean resorts.
Nogales and head south, or you along the way, but the best pick is
Heading south, the approach favored by most, can pick up Route 200 from the Villa Bella (www.villabella-lacruz.
Route 15 begins in the interior border town of border with Guatemala and head com) in La Cruz de Huancaxtle. It
Nogales and plunges towards the Sea of Cortez, north along the Pacific Coast, isn’t the cheapest stop, but it has
taking in the wild Sonora Desert scenery and joining Route 15 at Tepic. Parts of everything a seaside villa should
the route run parallel to rail lines, have and nothing it shouldn’t.
but you definitely need your own
When to Go
set of wheels for this epic journey.
The Pacific stretch of Mexico
Where to Eat tends to be hot and humid
There are thousands of spots through the year, but many
along Route 15 where you can travelers prefer to make the
stop for a bite, from the tiniest pilgrimage in the high season,
taco stands to enormous five- from late November to early May.
star restaurants. By the time you
reach Guaymas, you deserve Budget per Day for Two
something special. Stop at Los Allow at least US$75, with
Barcos (corner of the Malecón occasional splurges of up to
Malpica and Calle 22; tel. +52 US$150, especially if you opt to
622 222 7650) and treat yourself continue south from Tepic.
to what may be the first of many Website
seafood meals to come. www.visitmexico.com
ABOVE A view of the capital city of Sonora, Hermosillo

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