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13
         SÝROS



         ΣΎΡΟΣ
        ~ 1 km (0.5 miles) SE of Ermoúpoli   g Ermoúpoli   @
        n Ermoúpoli; www.syrosisland.gr
      EXPERIENCE  The Cyclades  and cul tural centre of the Cyclades. It became a rich   MARKOS
        Rocky Sýros, or Sýra, is the commercial, administrative
        and powerful port in the 19th century, and as a result
        the capital has richly decorated churches and grand
        squares. Tourism is not the main industry here,
                                                  VAMVAKARIS
        although the island becomes more popular every year.
                                                  One of the greatest
                                                  the Greek blues, Markos
        1
                                                  Vamvakaris (1905–72)
                            place, especially for the
                                                  was born in Áno Sýros,
        Ermoúpoli           the city’s hub and meeting   exponents of rembétika,
                            evening stroll, or vólta. There
                            is also a marble bandstand   and was a composer as
        g   @ Aktí Ethnikís                       well as a musician.
        Antístassis   n Thymáton   and a statue dedicated to the   Synonymous with hash
        Sperhíon 11; 22810 82500  revolutionary hero Admiral   dens, rembétika was
                            Andréas Miaoúlis. The square   the music of the urban
        Elegant Ermoúpoli, named   is dominated by the vast and   underclass. With strong
        after Hermes, the god of   impressive Neo-Classical town   Byzantine and Islamic
        commerce, is the largest city   hall (1876). Designed by the   influences, it is often
        in the Cyclades. In the 19th   German archi tect Ernst Ziller,   played on the baglamá
        century it was Greece’s   the building is now a National   or the bouzouki, both
        leading port and a major   Historical Landmark.  stringed guitar-like
        coaling station with a huge     The Archaeological   instruments. There are
        natural harbour and thriving   Museum, up the steps to the   hundreds of recordings
        shipyard. Crowned by the twin   left of the town hall, houses   of Vamvakaris’s music,
        peaks of Catholic Áno Sýros to   bronze and marble utensils   the earliest dating back
        the north and the Orthodox   from the 3000 BC Cycladic   to 1932. A bust of the
        Vrontádo to the south, the city  settlement at Halandrianí.   musician looks out to
        is built like an amphitheatre   Also on display are Cycladic   sea from the small
        around the harbour.  statuettes and Roman finds.   square named after
          The central Platía Miaoúli in   Left of the town hall is the   him in Sýros.
        the lower town is one of the   Historical Archives Office.
        glories of Ermoúpoli. Paved
        with marble and lined with
        palm-shaded cafés and
        pizzerias, the grand square is


















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