Page 254 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Greek Islands

EXPERIENCE Crete

Réthymno’s harbour ,
buzzing with tavernas
and bars

2 Archaeological Museum
occupies the former town
RÉTHYMNO prison. Its collection is set out
chronologically from Neolithic
times. The most compelling
ΡΈΘΥΜΝΟ through Minoan to Roman
exhibits are Minoan clay
larnakes (burial caskets), vividly
⌂ 55 km (35 miles) SE of Haniá @ Kefalogián nidon
n Kountourioti 80; 28210 92000 painted with stylized animals.
Despite modern development and tourism, the city
of Réthymno has kept much of its charm and remains 3
the intellectual capital of Crete. The old quarter is rich Old Town
in elegant, well-preserved Venetian and Ottoman Clustered behind the Fortétsa, 0 metres 200 N
architecture. The huge Venetian Fortétsa overlooks the the Old Town is charac terized
picturesque harbour, which is skirted by a sandy beach. by a maze of vine­canopied 0 yards 200
streets and Venetian and PERIFERIAKOS PERIFERIA KOS Georgioúpoli,
Ottoman houses with wrought­ Panormo
are still largely intact. Within iron balconies. Off Platía Títou
1 " them, a superb mosque, a Petiháki is the best­preserved Fortétsa Archaeological
Fortétsa small church with the largest mosque in the city, Nerantzés Museum PLATIA
dome in Greece and parts of Mosque. Built as the church of HIMARAS PLASTIRA
⌂ Kateháki § 28310 28101 Museum of DAMBERGI
# 8:30am–8pm; winter: the governor’s quarters can Santa Maria by the Venetians, Contemporary Art MESOLONGIOU Inner
to 3pm daily ¢ Main still be seen, though most are it was converted in 1657 by Old Town SALAMINOS Harbour
local Muslims. It now serves
in ruins. In the summer there
public hols I O A N N O U M E L I S S I N O U Rimondi
Fountain
are open­air concerts. as the local conservatory Palazzo Vecchio
Located at the western end of and occasional concert venue; S M I R N I S K O R A I M E T A X A K I R E N I E R I ARABATZOGLOU PALEOLOGOU Venetian
Réthymno’s bustling water­ just before or after rehearsal Veneto PETIHAKI SOULIOU Loggia
PLATIA
front is a small inner harbour, is the most likely time to catch POLITECHIOU KORO NEOU Historical and VENARDOU Nerantzés
where a restored 16th­century 2 " a glimpse of the wonderful R IGA F ER EO U Folk Art Museum PLATIA Mosque
light house stands on its Archaeological vaulted ceiling inside. In a little G R E G O R Y MIKRASIATON TSOUDE ROU ELEFTH ERIOU VENIZELO U
Agios
breakwater. Above this spot, Museum square on Paleológou, the still­ P E R I FER IA KOS M A V I L I PATELAROU A R K A D I O U Réthymno
NIKIFOROU FOKA Frangiskos
Beach
the Fortétsa, or citadel, ⌂ Himáras § 28310 27506 running 17th­century stone P A N T E L I P R E V E L A K I PLATONOS ETHNIKIS ANDISTASIS V A R B A R A S
dominates the city. Designed # Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue– Venetian Rimóndi Fountain Venetian
Gate
by Sforza Pallavicini in the Sun; Nov–Mar: 9am–3pm gushes alongside busy cafés SINTAGMATOS S I F I V L A S T O U Minaret V. KALERGI Kara Pasha
I. DIMAKOPOULOU
1570s, it was built to defend Tue–Sun ¢ Main public hols and shops. I GO UM G AVR IL MARTIRON Mosque PLATIA
PLATIA 4
the port against pirate attacks The small Historical and Municipal KOUN TOURIOTI IROON
Gardens
Y E R A K A R I
and the increasing threat of Directly opposite the main Folk Art Museum is housed Georgioúpoli Minoan Cemetery Kapsalianá Village
the Ottomans. The ramparts entrance to the Fortétsa, the in a Venetian mansion. On 22 km (14 miles) 7 km (4 miles) 18 km (11 miles)
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