Page 279 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Greek Islands
P. 279

v                     HIKES AROUND ZÁKROS
       Sitía                 Just inland from the port at Káto Zákros, the Gorge of the
       Σητεία                Dead (so called for the ancient tombs in its flanks)
       ⌂ 70 km (44 miles) E    extends inland as far as modern Zákros village. It’s
       of Ágios Nikólaos    g @  actually a very alive canyon, with vegetation, birds and
                             potable water from the aqueduct threading it. Hikers
       Snaking its way through the   should allow two hours for a round trip. A 45-minute
       mountains between Gourniá   walk from Hohlakiés village takes hikers down the gorge
       and Sitía, the National   to Karoumés beach. A coastal trail also links Karoumés
       Highway traverses some of   with Káto Zákros – handy if you’ve left a car there.
       the most magnificent scenery
       in Crete. Towards Sitía, the
       landscape gives way to barren
       ridges and vineyards.
         Although there is evidence
       of a large Greco-Roman city in
       the region, modern Sitía dates
       from the 4th century AD. It
       flourished under Byzantine
       and early Venetian rule, but its
       fortunes took a downturn in
       the 16th century as a result
       of earthquakes and pirate
       attacks. When rebuilding took
       place in the 1870s Sitía began   Archaeological Museum  The agricultural town of
       to prosper once again.  "   ⌂ South edge of town, on   Palékastro, 10 km (6 miles)
         Today, the production of   corner of National HIghway    south of Váï, is the gateway
       wine and olive oil is important   to Palékastro   § 28430   to sandy Koureménos beach,
       to Sitía’s economy, and the   23917   # 8am–3pm Tue–Sun     a major windsurfing centre.
       town has replaced Ágios   ¢ Main public hols
       Nikólaos as the ferry port
       for eastern Crete.
         At the centre of Sitía’s old   b      n "
       quarter lies a picturesque              Zákros
       harbour, with tavernas and   Váï Beach  Zάκρος
       cafés clustering around its   Παραλία Βάι
       edges. Above the north end              ⌂ 104 km (65 miles) SE
       of the harbour the restored   ⌂ 93 km (58 miles) E    of Ágios Nikólaos   @
       Venetian fort (now used as an   of Ágios Nikólaos   @   ¢ Main public hols
       open-air theatre) is all that   Exotic Váï Beach is a tropical   In 1961, Cretan archaeologist
       remains of the once extensive   paradise of palm trees known   Nikolaos Platon discovered
       fortifications of the town. The   to have existed in ancient   the unplundered Minoan
       Kornaria Festival is a cultural   times. This inviting sandy cove  palace of Zákros. The fourth
       event held in the fort from   is tremendously popular with   largest of the Minoan palaces,
       mid-June until mid-August   holiday-makers. Although   it was built around 1700 BC
       and is a great way for visitors   thoroughly commercialized,   and destroyed in the island-
       to learn about the customs   with overpriced tavernas and   wide disaster of 1450 BC.
       and traditions of Sitía. Festival   the constant arrival of tour     The two-storey palace was
       events include music, theatre   buses, great care is taken to   arranged around a central
       and dance performances,   protect the palm trees.  courtyard, the east side of
       exhibitions and sports.    In the desolate landscape    which contained the royal
         On the southern outskirts   3 km (2 miles) north of Váï,    apartments. Remains of a
       of town, the Archaeological   the ruins of the ancient city-  colonnaded cistern hall can
       Museum displays artifacts   state of Itanos stand on a    still be seen, as can a stone-
       from the Sitía district. Exhibits   hill between two sandy    lined well in which some
       range from Neolithic to Roman  coves. Minoan, Greco-Roman   preserved 3,000-year-old
       times and include an exquisite   and Byzantine remains have   olives were found in 1964.
       Minoan ivory statuette known   been excavated (the scant   Finds from the palace include
       as the Palékastro kouros, a   traces of which can be seen   an exquisite rock crystal jug
       large pottery collection and a   today), including a Byzantine   and numerous vases, now in
       sizeable haul of material from   basilica and the ruins of     the Iráklio Archaeological
       Zákros Palace.      some Classical temples.  Museum (p258).
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