Page 293 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Greek Islands
P. 293

EXPERIENCE MORE           The charming streets of

                           Anafiótika, lined with
                           whitewashed houses        EAT

                           helped to build the new city   Rififi
                           following independence, they   Expect creations like
                           ignored a decree declaring   slow-braised pork neck
                           the area an archaeo logical   in balsamic ginger sauce
                           zone, and completed their   at this airy venue.
                           houses overnight, installing    ⌂ Emmanouil Benaki 69
                           their families by morning. By   & Valtetsiou   ∑ rififi-
                           Ottoman law, this meant the   restaurant.gr/en/
                           authorities were powerless to   ¡¡¡
                           knock the new houses down.
                             The area is bounded by two
                           17th-century churches: Agios   Ama Lahei
       bronzes are the Horse with the   Geórgios tou Vráhou to the   Dine in an old house
       Little Jockey and the Poseidon.   southeast, which has a tiny   (winter) or a large tiered
       Also housed here is one of the   courtyard filled with flowers,   garden (summer). Rakí
       world’s largest collections of   and Agios Symeón to the   by the carafe.
       ancient ceramics, comprising   west, which con tains a copy of   ⌂ Kallidromíou 69
       elegant figure vases from the   a miraculous icon, originally    § 210 38 45 978
       6th and 5th centuries BC and   brought from Anáfi.  ¡¡¡
       some Geometric funerary
       vases dating back to 1000 BC.                 Diporto
       The Library of Archaeology   5              Businessmen and
       holds a large collection of rare
                                                  market traders come
       books, including the diaries    Exárhia    here for grilled fish and
       of Heinrich Schliemann, who   q Omónia    stews. Limited seating,
       uncovered the remains of                   so you share tables
       Mycenae and Troy.   An area of about a dozen   with other diners.
                           blocks southeast of the
                                                   ⌂ Sokrátous 9, crn
                           National Archaeological   Theátrou, basement; no
       4                   Museum, around the platía at   sign   § 210 32 11 463
                           the junctions of Spyrídonos,
       Anafiótika          Themistokléous, Trikoúpi    ¡¡¡
       Αναφιώτικα          and Stournára, Exárhia is the
                           traditional student quarter,
       q Monastiráki or Akrópoli  the long-time headquarters
       Nestling beneath the northern   of the Greek publishing
       slopes of the Acropolis, this   industry, and a major   next to the Ancient Agora, it is
       area is one of the oldest   alternative culture hub.   bounded by Platía Agíon
       settlements in Athens. Today,     It is a heavily graffitied area,  Asomáton in the west and
       its whitewashed houses,   and some of the murals are   Eólou in the east. The streets
       cramped streets and pots     well worth seeking out.   of Pandrósou, Iféstou and
       of basil on windowsills still   Tavernas, cafés, bars and   Áreos leading off Platía
       give it the atmosphere of a   quirky shops abound.   Monastirakíou are full of
       typical Cycladic village. Its first     shops, selling a range of
       residents were refugees from            goods from antiques, leather
       the Peloponnesian War. By   6           and silver to tourist trinkets.
       1841, it had been colonized by            The heart of the flea
       workmen from Anáfi, in the   Monastiráki  market is Platía Avyssinías,
       Cyclades, who eventually gave   Μοναστηράκι  where every weekend junk
       the area its name. Part of the          dealers arrive with pieces of
       influx of island craftsmen who   q Monastiráki Market   furniture and various odds
                           # Daily
                                               and ends. During the week,
                           This area, named after the   nearby shops and stalls still
                           little monastery church in   offer antiques, second-hand
       The imposing stoa of   Platía Monastirakíou, is   books, rugs, leatherware,
       Attalos, on the site of    synonymous with Athens’   taverna chairs, army surplus
       the Ancient Agora   famous flea market. Located   gear and tools.
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