Page 100 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

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Palermo 1 Trapani 4
5 Trattoria Ai Cascinari Sicilian € 5 Osteria La Bettolaccia Sicilian €€
(%091 651 98 04; Via d’Ossuna 43/45; meals (%0923 2 16 95; www.labettolaccia.it; Via Enrico
€20-25; h12.30-2.30pm Tue-Sun, plus Fardella 25; meals €35-45; h12.45-3pm Mon-Fri,
8-10.30pm Wed-Sat) Yes, it’s a bit out of the plus 7.45-11pm Mon-Sat) Unwaveringly authentic,
way, but Ai Cascinari, 1km north of the Cappella this Slow Food favourite just two blocks from
Palatina, is a long-standing Palermitan favourite, the ferry terminal is the perfect place to try cous
and deservedly so. It’s especially enjoyable cous con zuppa di mare (couscous with mixed
on Sunday afternoons, when locals pack the seafood in a spicy fish sauce, with tomatoes,
labyrinth of back rooms and waiters perambulate garlic and parsley). Even with its newly expanded
non-stop with plates of scrumptious seasonal dining room, it can still fill up, so book ahead.
antipasti, fresh seafood and desserts from
Palermo’s beloved Cappello and Scimone Marsala 5
ITALY 6 WONDERS OF ANCIENT SICILY
pasticcerie (pastry shops).
4 Butera 28 Apartment €€ 5 Il Gallo e l’Innamorata Sicilian €€
(%333 3165432; www.butera28.it; Via Butera (%0923 195 44 46; www.
28; apt per day €60-200, per week €400-1320; osteriailgalloelinnamorata.com; Via Bilardello 18;
aW) Delightful multilingual owner Nicoletta meals €25-35; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm
rents 11 comfortable apartments in the 18th- Tue-Sun) Warm-orange walls and arched stone
century Palazzo Lanzi Tomasi, the last home of doorways lend an artsy, convivial atmosphere to
Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of The this Slow Food–acclaimed eatery. The à la carte
Leopard. Units range from 30 to 180 sq metres, menu features a few well-chosen dishes each
most sleeping a family of four or more. Four day, including the classic scaloppine al Marsala
apartments face the sea, most have laundry (veal cooked with Marsala wine and lemon).
facilities and all have well-equipped kitchens.
Agrigento 8
Erice 3 5 Kalòs Modern Sicilian €€
4 Hotel Elimo Hotel €€ (%0922 2 63 89; www.facebook.com/ristorante.
(%0923 86 93 77; www.hotelelimo.it; Via Vittorio kalos; Piazzetta San Calogero; meals €30-45;
Emanuele 75; s €80-110, d €90-130, ste €150-170; h12.30-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun) For fine dining,
aW) Communal spaces at this atmospheric head to this ‘smart’ restaurant just outside the
historic house are filled with tiled beams, marble historic centre. Five cute tables on little balconies
fireplaces, intriguing art, knick-knacks and offer a delightful setting to enjoy homemade
antiques. The bedrooms are more mainstream, pasta all’agrigentina (with fresh tomatoes, basil
although many (along with the hotel terrace and and almonds), citrus shrimp or spada gratinata
restaurant) have breathtaking vistas south and (baked swordfish covered in breadcrumbs).
west towards the Saline di Trapani, the Egadi Superb desserts, including homemade cannoli
Islands and the shimmering sea. (pastry shells with a sweet filling) and almond
semifreddi, round out the menu.
4 PortAtenea B&B €
(%349 0937492; www.portatenea.com; Via
Atenea, cnr Via C Battisti; s €35-50, d €50-75, tr
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