Page 105 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

monumental fountain, century frescoes at Cattedrale di Nostra
art nouveau Palazzo Cambi Cafe (www.cambi Signora Assunta (Piazza
Borsa (once the city’s cafe.com; Via Falamonica 9; Cattedrale; h7.30am-7.30pm)
stock exchange) and h10am-11pm). survived.
the neoclassical Teatro 5 p40, p107 But you’re not here
Carlo Felice (%010 538 12 for the architecture –
24; www.carlofelice.it; Passo The Drive » Exit Genoa you’re here for the food.
Eugenio Montale 4). westward, through a tangle of The covered market (Via
Join the well-dressed flyovers and tunnels to access Pietro Giuria; h7am-1.30pm
haute bourgeoisie the A10 for the first 56km drive Mon-Sat) is crammed with
enjoying high-profile art to Savona. Once out of the fruit-and-veg stalls and
suburbs the forested slopes
exhibits in the grand of the Maritime Alps rise to fish stands stacked with
Mannerist halls of the your right and sea views peep salt cod. Grigiomar (Via
Palazzo Ducale (www. out from the left as you duck Pietro Giuria 42r; h9am-6pm
palazzoducale.genova.it; through tunnels. Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) salts ITALY 7 ITALIAN RIvIERA
Piazza Giacomo Matteotti its own local anchovies.
9; price varies by exhibition; Then there are the local
hhours vary), then retire 2 Savona amaretti biscuits, made
to sip spritz amid Ber- Don’t be put off by with bitter and sweet
nardo Strozzi’s 17th- Savona’s horrifying almonds, available at
industrial sprawl; the Pasticceria Besio (www.
Savonesi were a powerful amarettibesio.com; Via
maritime people and the Sormano 16r; h2.30-7pm
158km to / · / · town centre is unexpect- Mon, 9am-7pm Tue-Sat), and
A26
F G A26 # \ Voltri # \/ · edly graceful. Standing the farinata di grano
2
‚
A10
# \/·
Pegli / ·
Voltri
A10
# \
# ^
# 1
SS1
# \ Pegli /· SS1 # near the port are three (wheat-flour pancakes)
^
#
# \ Arenzano # of the many medieval at Vino e Farinata (Via Pia
# 1
l L
Genoa
Varazze Arenzano Genoa l L 15; meals €20; h11am-10pm
# \ towers that once stud-
Varazze ded the cityscape. As Tue-Sat).
Genoa’s greatest rival The Drive » Rejoin the A10 and
the town was savagely leave the industrial chimneys
sacked in 1528, the castle of Savona behind you. For the
Golfo di
Golfo di dismantled and most of first 13km the A10 continues
Genova
Genova
the population slaugh- with views of the sea, then at
tered, but somehow the Spotorno it ducks inland for the
Fortezza del Priamàr final 15km to the Finale Ligure
exit. Descend steeply for 3km to
(Piazza Priamar) and the the Finale hamlets on the coast.
LINK
YOUR
TRIP
2 The Graceful c Riviera Crossing
Italian Lakes
Roll right on into
Heading north from Genoa France for more beaches,
you’re soon in the land glam cities and glitering
of refreshing lakes and seascapes
mountains.
103