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Eating & Sleeping                      / GETTY IMAGES ©


                                      4 House Hotel       Hotel €€€
        Dublin 1                      (%091-538 900; www.thehousehotel.ie; Spanish
                                      Pde; r €140-220; pW) There’s a hip and cool
        5 101 Talbot     Modern Irish €€  array of colour in the lobby at this smart and
        (www.101talbot.ie; 100-102 Talbot St; mains   stylish boutique hotel. Public spaces contrast
        €17-24; hnoon-3pm & 5-11pm Tue-Sat; gall   modern art with trad details and bold accents.
        city centre) This Dublin classic has expertly   Cat motifs abound. The 40 rooms are small but
        resisted every trendy wave and has been a   plush, with bright colour schemes and quality
        stalwart of good Irish cooking since opening   fabrics. Bathrooms ooze comfort.
        more than two decades ago. Its speciality is
        traditional meat-and-two-veg dinners, but
        with vague Mediterranean and even Middle   Clifden 4
     IRELAND 22 ICONIC IRELAND
        Eastern influences: roast Wicklow venison with
        sweet potato, lentil and bacon cassoulet and   5 Mitchell’s   Seafood €€
        a sensational Morcoccan-style lamb tagine.   (%095-21867; www.mitchellsrestaurantclifden.
        Superb.                       com; Market St; lunch mains €7-15, dinner mains
        4 Number 31      Guesthouse €€€  €17-28; hnoon-10pm Mar-Oct) Seafood takes
                                      centre stage at this elegant spot. From a velvety
        (%01-676 5011; www.number31.ie; 31 Leeson   chowder right through a long list of ever-
        Close; s/d incl breakfast €200/240; pW; gall   changing and inventive specials, the produce
        city centre) The city’s most distinctive property   of the surrounding waters is honoured. The
        is the former home of modernist architect Sam   wine list does the food justice. Lunch includes
        Stephenson, who successfully fused ’60s style   sandwiches and casual fare. Book for dinner.
        with 18th-century grace. Its 21 bedrooms are
        split between the retro coach house, with its   4 Dolphin Beach   B&B €€
        coolly modern rooms, and the more elegant   (%095-21204; www.dolphinbeachhouse.com;
        Georgian house, where rooms are individually   Lower Sky Rd; s from €90, d €130-180, dinner
        furnished with tasteful French antiques and big   €40; pW) This exquisite B&B, set amid some
        comfortable beds. Gourmet breakfasts with   of Connemara’s best coastal scenery, does
        kippers, homemade breads and granola are   everything right. The emphasis is on style,
        served in the conservatory.   tranquillity, relaxation and gorgeous views, a
                                      formula that can be hard to tear yourself away
                                      from. It’s 5km west of Clifden, tucked away off
        Galway City 2                 the Lower Sky Road.
        5 Quays                Irish €€
        (Quay St; mains lunch €11-14, dinner €17-22;   Ennis 6
        h11am-10pm) This sprawling pub does a
        roaring business downstairs in its restaurant,   5 Rowan Tree
        which has hearty carvery lunches and more   Cafe Bar   Mediterranean €€
        ambitious mains at night. The cold seafood   (www.rowantreecafebar.ie; Harmony Row; mains
        platter stars the bounty from Galway Bay.   €11-23; h10.30am-11pm; W) There’s nothing
        Students on dates and out celebrating get   low rent about the excellent Med-accented
        rowdier as the pints and hours pass.  fare served at this cafe-bar on the ground floor
                                      of the namesake hostel. The gorgeous main

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