Page 315 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

dining room has high ceilings and a wondrous rooms that overlook the estuary, and two-room
old wooden floor from the 18th century; tables family suites opening onto the terrace. It’s 1km
outside have river views. Ingredients are locally southeast of the town centre.
and organically sourced.
4 Old Ground Hotel Hotel €€ Killarney 9
(%065-682 8127; www.flynnhotels.com;
O’Connell St; s/d from €120/150; piW) A 5 Brícín Irish €€
seasoned, charming and congenial space of (www.bricin.com; 26 High St; mains €19-26;
polished floorboards, cornice-work, antiques h6-9pm Tue-Sat) Decorated with fittings from
and open fires, the lobby is always a scene: a convent, an orphanage and a school, this
old friends sinking into sofas, deals cut at Celtic deco restaurant doubles as the town
the tables, and ladies from the neighbouring museum, with Jonathan Fisher’s 18th-century
church’s altar society exchanging gossip over views of the national park taking pride of place.
tea. Parts of this smart and rambling landmark Try the house speciality, boxty (traditional
date back to the 1800s. The 83 rooms vary potato pancake). Two-/three-course dinner for
greatly in size and decor – ask to inspect a few. €22/25 before 6.45pm. IRELAND 22 ICONIC IRELAND
On balmy days, retire to tables on the lawn.
4 Crystal Springs B&B €€
(%064-663 3272; www.crystalspringsbb.com;
Dingle 7 Ballycasheen Cross, Woodlawn Rd; s/d €70/95;
pW) The timber deck of this wonderfully
5 Idás Irish €€€ relaxing B&B overhangs the River Flesk, where
(%066-915 0885; John St; mains €27-31; trout anglers can fish for free. Rooms are richly
h5.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun) Chef Kevin Murphy furnished with patterned wallpapers and walnut
is dedicated to promoting the finest of Irish timber; private bathrooms (most with spa
produce, much of it from Kerry, taking lamb baths) are huge. The glass-enclosed breakfast
and seafood and foraged herbs from the Dingle room also overlooks the rushing river. It’s about
peninsula and creating delicately flavoured a 15-minute stroll into town.
concoctions such as braised John Dory fillet
with fennel dashi cream, pickled cucumber,
wild garlic and salad burnet. An early-bird menu Kenmare a
offers two/three courses for €24.50/28.50.
5 Horseshoe Pub Food €€
5 Out of the Blue Seafood €€€ (%064-664 1553; www.thehorseshoekenmare.
(%066-915 0811; www.outoftheblue.ie; The com; 3 Main St; mains €14-26; hkitchen 5-10pm
Wood; mains lunch €12.50-20, dinner €21-37; Thu-Mon) Flower baskets brighten the entrance
h5-9.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-3pm & 5-9.30pm to this popular gastropub, which has a short but
CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
Sun) ‘No chips’, reads the menu of this funky excellent menu that runs from Kenmare Bay
blue-and-yellow, fishing-shack-style restaurant mussels in creamy apple cider sauce to braised
on the waterfront. Despite its rustic surrounds, Kerry lamb on mustard mash.
this is one of Dingle’s best restaurants, with an
intense devotion to fresh local seafood (and only 4 Parknasilla Resort & Spa Hotel €€€
seafood); if they don’t like the catch, they don’t (%064-667 5600; www.parknasillaresort.
open. With seafood this good, who needs chips? com; Parknasilla; d/f/ste from €139/179/229;
4 Pax House B&B €€ piWs) This hotel has been wowing guests
(including George Bernard Shaw) since 1895
(%066-915 1518; www.pax-house.com; Upper with its pristine resort on the tree-fringed
John St; d from €120; hMar-Nov; piW) shores of the Kenmare River with views to the
From its highly individual decor (including Beara Peninsula. From the modern, luxuriously
contemporary paintings) to the outstanding appointed bedrooms to the top-grade spa,
views over the estuary from room balconies private 12-hole golf course and elegant
and terrace, Pax House is a treat. Choose from restaurant, everything here is done just right.
less expensive hill-facing accommodation, It’s 3km southeast of Sneem.

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