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LOCAL KNOWLEDGE:              / GETTY IMAGES ©
                 THE HEALY PASS               PETER UNGER/GETTY IMAGES ©
          Instead of going directly into County Cork along
          the N71 from Kenmare, veer west onto the R571
          and drive for 16km along the northern edge of the
          Beara Peninsula. At Lauragh, turn onto the R574 and
          take the breathtaking Healy Pass Road, which cuts
          through the peninsula and brings you from County
          Kerry into County Cork. At Adrigole, turn left onto the
          R572 and rejoin the N71 at Glengarriff, 17km east.



        d Cork City         TRIP HIGHLIGHT
        Ireland’s second city   e Ardmore
        is first in every impor-  Because it’s off the main
        tant respect, at least   drag, Ardmore is a sleepy
        according to the locals,   seaside village and one of
        who cheerfully refer to   the southeast’s loveliest
     IRELAND 23 THE LONG WAY ROuND
        it as the ‘real capital of   spots – the ideal destina-
        Ireland’. The compact   tion for those looking for
        city centre is surrounded   a little waterside R&R.
        by interesting waterways   St Declan reputedly set
        and is chock full of great   up shop here sometime
        restaurants fed by argu-  between AD 350 and 420,
        ably the best foodie scene   which would make Ard-
        in the country.
                            more the first Christian
        54 p327             bastion in Ireland – long
                            before St Patrick landed.
        The Drive » It’s only 60km   The village’s 12th-
        to Ardmore, but stop off in   century round tower, one
        Midleton, 24km east of Cork
        along the N25, and visit the   of the best examples of
        whiskey museum. Just beyond   these structures in Ire-
        Youghal, turn right onto the   land, is the town’s most
        R671 for Ardmore.   distinctive architectural
                            feature, but you should
                            also check out the ruins
                            of St Declan’s church and
                            well, on a bluff above the
                            village.










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