Page 329 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

flagship department store, Lyons, opened in
1878 – with original leadlight windows and Kenmare c
squeaky timber floors – and has been going
strong since 1923. At its airy 1st-floor cafe, 5 Tom Crean Fish & Wine Irish €€
acclaimed chef (and cookbook author) Gary (%064-664 1589; http://tomcrean.ie; Main
Stafford offers a fresh and seasonal menu. St; 2-/3-course menus €25/29, mains €16.50;
4 Pearse Lodge B&B €€ h5-9.30pm Thu-Sun late-Mar–Dec; W) Named
(%071-916 1090; www.pearselodge.com; Pearse for Kerry’s pioneering Antarctic explorer,
and run by his granddaughter, this venerable
Rd; s/d from €50/80; iW) Welcoming owners restaurant uses only the best of local organic
Mary and Kieron have four stylish guest rooms produce, cheeses and fresh seafood, all served
with hardwood floors. The breakfast menu in modern, low-key surrounds. The oysters
includes smoked salmon and French toast au naturel capture the scent of the sea; the
with bananas. A sunny sitting room opens to a homemade ravioli of prawn mousse, and
garden. It’s 700m southwest of the centre.
sesame seed-crusted Atlantic salmon with lime
and coriander are divine.
Inishmór 7 4 Virginia’s Guesthouse B&B €€ IRELAND 23 THE LONG WAY ROuND
(%064-664 1021; www.virginias-kenmare.com;
4 Kilmurvey House B&B €€ Henry St; s/d from €40/75; W) You can’t get
(%099-61218; www.kilmurveyhouse.com; more central than this award-winning B&B,
Kilmurvey; s/d from €50/90; hmid-Apr– whose creative breakfasts celebrate organic
mid-Oct) On the path leading to Dún Aengus local produce (rhubarb and blueberries in
is this grand 18th-century stone mansion. season, for example, as well as fresh-squeezed
It’s a beautiful setting and the 12 rooms are OJ and porridge with whiskey). Its eight rooms
well maintained. Hearty meals (dinner €30) are super-comfy without being fussy.
incorporate vegetables from the garden, and
local fish and meats. You can swim at a pretty
beach that’s a short walk from the house. Cork City d

5 Market Lane Irish, International €€
Dingle a (%021-427 4710; www.marketlane.ie; 5 Oliver
Plunkett St; mains €10-25; hnoon-10pm
5 Idás Irish €€€ Mon-Thu, noon-10.30pm Fri & Sat, 1-9pm
(%066-915 0885; John St; mains €27-31; Sun; Wc) It’s always hopping at this bright
h5.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun) Chef Kevin Murphy corner bistro. The menu is broad and hearty,
is dedicated to promoting the finest of Irish changing to reflect what’s fresh at the English
produce, much of it from Kerry, taking lamb Market: perhaps braised ox cheek in ale, or
and seafood and foraged herbs from the Dingle smoked haddock with bacon and cabbage? No
peninsula and creating delicately flavoured reservations for fewer than six diners; sip a
concoctions such as braised John Dory fillet drink at the bar till a table is free.
with fennel dashi cream, pickled cucumber,
wild garlic and salad burnet. An early-bird menu 4 Imperial Hotel Hotel €€
offers two/three courses for €24.50/28.50. (%021-427 4040; www.flynnhotels.com; South
Mall; d €130-200; piW) Having recently
4 Pax House B&B €€ celebrated its bicentenary – Thackeray,
(%066-915 1518; www.pax-house.com; Upper Dickens and Sir Walter Scott have all stayed
John St; d from €120; hMar-Nov; piW) From here – the Imperial knows how to age gracefully.
its highly individual decor to the outstanding Public spaces resonate with period detail,
views over the estuary from room balconies and while the 130 bedrooms feature writing desks,
terrace, Pax House is a treat. Choose from less understated decor and modern touches
expensive hill-facing accommodation, rooms that including a luxurious spa and a digital music
overlook the estuary, and two-room family suites library. Irish Free State commander-in-chief
opening onto the terrace. It’s 1km southeast of Michael Collins spent his last night alive here;
the town centre. you can ask to check into his room.
327