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the tourists have arrived,
                                                Mojácar has retained its
                                                essence.
                                                  There are actually two
                                                towns here: old Mojácar
                                                Pueblo, a jumble of white,
                                                cube-shaped houses on a
                                                hilltop 2km inland, and
                                                Mojácar Playa, a modern
                                               UNIVERSAL IMAGES GROUP / GETTY IMAGES ©
                                                beach resort.
                                                  Exploring Mojácar
                                                Pueblo is mainly a mat-
                                                ter of wandering the
                                                mazelike streets, with
                                                their bougainvillea-
                                                swathed balconies,
                                                stopping off at craft   SPAIN 27 MEDITERRANEAN MEANDER
                                                shops, galleries and
                                                boutiques. El Mirador del
                                                Castillo, at the top-most
                                                point, has a cafe-bar and
                                                magnificent views. The
                                                fortress-style Iglesia de
                                                Santa María (Calle Iglesia)
                                                dates from 1560 and
                                                may have once been a
                                                mosque.
                                                  South of Mojácar
                                                Playa, the beaches are
                                                quieter, and once you get
                                                to the fringes of town,
                                                there are a number of
                                                more secluded areas.
                                                4 p386
                                                The Drive » Retrace your
                                                steps from Mojácar back to the
                                                A7 autovia. After 10km merge
                                                onto the AP7 near Vera. This is
                                                a toll road. Continue until the
                                                exit for Cartagena Oeste. At the
                                                roundabout take the N332 into
                                                the city. Mojácar to Cartagena
                                                is 134km.

                                                6 Cartagena
                                                Cartagena’s fabulous
                                                natural harbour has
                                                been used for thousands
                                                of years. Stand on the


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