Page 383 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

DETOUR:
DELTA DE L’ERBE
Start: 9 Valencia (p382)
The delta of the Río Ebre, formed by silt brought down by the river, sticks out 20km
into the Mediterranean near Catalonia’s southern border. Dotted with reedy lagoons
and fringed by dune-backed beaches, this completely flat and exposed wetland,
with Parc Natural Delta de l’Ebre comprising 77 sq km, is northern Spain’s most
important waterbird habitat. The migration season (October and November) sees
the bird population peak, but they are also numerous in winter and spring.
Even if you’re not a twitcher, a visit here is worthwhile for the surreal landscapes
alone. Tiny whitewashed farmhouses seem to float on little islands among green
and brown paddy fields which stretch to the horizon. It’s completely unlike
anywhere else in Catalonia.
The scruffy, sprawling town of Deltebre is at the centre of the delta but push SPAIN 27 MEDITERRANEAN MEANDER
on from here to smaller villages such as Riumar, the coastal village at the delta’s
easternmost point, or Poblenou del Delta.
To reach Deltebre, branch off AP7 at exit 41, 180km north of Valencia. The town
lies 13km to the east along TV3454.

h10am-10pm Apr-Sep, north, passing through a famous as the birthplace
to 8pm Oct-Mar), which couple of tunnels and heading of the Borgia Popes Ca-
also houses a museum progressively downhill as lixtus III and Alexander
recounting the history it forges an inland route to VI. The town’s glory
of Alicante. If you’re not Valencia. After 106km exit on days ended in 1707 when
the CV645 signposted Xàtiva.
up for the steep climb, It’s 5km to the town itself. Felipe V’s troops torched
the city has a couple of most of the town.
good free museums. The What’s interesting in
Museo de Arte Contem- 8 Xàtiva Xàtiva lies south and
poráneo de Alicante Xàtiva (Spanish: Játiva) uphill from the Alameda,
(p377) displays Dalí, is often visited on an including the castle
Miró and Picasso, among (adult/child €2.40/1.20;
others. The Museu de easy and rewarding h10am-6pm or 7pm Tue-Sun),
50km day trip from Va-
Fogueres (Museo de las lencia or – in this case – which clasps to the sum-
Hogueras; Rambla de Méndez as a stop on the way mit of a double-peaked
Núñez 29; h10am-2pm & north from Alicante. It hill overlooking the old
5-8pm or 6-9pm Tue-Sat) has has a small historic quar- town. Today, behind its
photos, costumes and ter and a mighty castle crumbling battlements
an audiovisual presenta- strung along the crest you’ll find a mixture of
tion of the Fiesta de Sant of the Serra Vernissa, flower gardens (bring
Joan. a picnic), tumbledown
at whose base the town
5 p386 snuggles. turrets and towers, and
an excellent museum on
The Muslims estab-
The Drive » Leave Alicante lished Europe’s first pa- medieval life. The walk
on the A77 signposted Valencia. per manufacturing plant up to the castle is a long
After 10km merge onto the one, but the views are
A7. The autovia proceeds in Xàtiva, which is also sensational.

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