Page 42 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Eating & Sleeping

Turin 1 Venice 4
6 Fiorio Cafe 5 Dalla Marisa Venetian $$
(Via Po 8; h8.30am-1am Tue-Sun) Garner (%041 72 02 11; Fondamenta di San Giobbe
literary inspiration in Mark Twain’s old window 652b, Cannaregio; set menu lunch/dinner
seat as you contemplate the gilded interior of a €15/35; hnoon-3pm daily, 7-11pm Thu-Sat;
cafe where 19th-century students once plotted fCrea) At this Cannaregio institution, you’ll
revolutions and the Count of Cavour deftly be seated where there’s room and get no
ITALY 1 GRAND TOuR
played whist. The bittersweet hot chocolate menu – you’ll have whatever Marisa’s cooking.
remains inspirational. And you’ll like it. Lunches are a bargain at €15
for a first, main, side, wine, water and coffee –
pace yourself through prawn risotto to finish
Genoa 2 with steak and grilled zucchini, or Marisa will
jokingly scold you over coffee.
5 Trattoria della Raibetta Trattoria $$
(%010 246 88 77; www.trattoriadellaraibetta. 5 Ristoteca Oniga Venetian $$
it; Vico Caprettari 10-12; meals €35; hnoon- (%041 522 44 10; www.oniga.it; Campo San
2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun) Totally typica Barnaba 2852; meals €19-35; hnoon-2.30pm
Genoese food can be found in the family-run & 7-10.30pm Wed-Mon; W; fCa’ Rezzonico)
joints hidden in the warren of streets near the Its menu peppered with organic ingredients,
cathedral. This, a snug trattoria with a low brick- Oniga serves exemplary sarde in saor (sardines
vaulted ceiling, serves regional classics such in tangy onion marinade), seasonal pastas and
as trofiette al pesto or octopus salad alongside the odd Hungarian classic like goulash (a nod
excellent fresh fish. to former chef Annika Major). Oenophiles will
appreciate the selection of 100-plus wines,
handy for toasting to the €19 set lunch menu.
Cremona 2 Grab a sunny spot in the campo, or get cosy in a
wood-panelled corner.
5 La Sosta Osteria $$ 4 Ca’ Angeli Boutique Hotel $$
(%0372 45 66 56; www.osterialasosta.it; Via
Sicardo 9; meals €35-40; h12.15-2pm Tue-Sun, (%041 523 24 80; www.caangeli.it; Calle del
7.15-10pm Tue-Sat) La Sosta is surrounded Traghetto de la Madoneta 1434, San Polo; d
by violin-makers’ workshops and is a suitably €95-225, ste from €200; aW; fSan Silvestro)
harmonious place to feast on regional delicacies Murano glass chandeliers, a Louis XIV love-seat
such as tortelli di zucca (pumpkin pasta parcels) and namesake 16th-century angels set a refined
and baked snails. The entrance is plastered with tone at this restored, canalside palazzo. Guest
so many approving restaurant-guide stickers rooms are a picture with beamed ceilings,
that you can’t see through the glass. antique carpets and big bathrooms, while the
dining room looks out onto the Grand Canal.
Breakfast includes organic products where
possible.

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