Page 43 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Bologna 5 Rome 8
5 All’Osteria Bottega Osteria $$ 5 Necci Cafe $$
(%051 58 51 11; Via Santa Caterina 51; meals (%06 9760 1552; www.necci1924.com; Via
€35-40; h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sat) Fanfulla da Lodi 68; dinner around €45, lunch
At this osteria truly worthy of the name, owners mains around €8; h8am-2am; W; jVia
Daniele and Valeria lavish attention on every Prenestina) Iconic Necci opened as a gelateria
table between trips to the kitchen for plates of in 1924 and later became a favourite of director
culatello di Zibello ham, tortellini in capon broth, Pier Paolo Pasolini. Good for a drink or a meal,
pork shank in red wine reduction and other it serves up sophisticated Italian cooking to an
Slow Food delights. Desserts are homemade by eclectic crowd of all ages, with a lovely, leafy
Valeria, from the ciambella (Romagnola ring- garden terrace (ideal for families).
shaped cake) to fresh fruit sorbets.
5 Enoteca Regionale ITALY 1 GRAND TOuR
4 Bologna nel Cuore B&B $$ Palatium Ristorante $$$
(%051 26 94 42; www.bolognanelcuore.it; Via (%06 6920 2132; Via Frattina 94; meals €55;
Cesare Battisti 29; s €80-100, d €100-140, apt h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug; gVia del
€125-130; paW) This centrally located, Corso) A rich showcase of regional bounty, run
immaculate and well-loved B&B features a pair by the Lazio Regional Food Authority, this sleek
of bright, high-ceilinged rooms with pretty tiled wine bar serves excellent local specialities,
bathrooms and endless mod cons, plus two such as porchetta (pork roasted with herbs)
comfortable, spacious apartments with kitchen or gnocchi alla Romana con crema da zucca
and laundry facilities. Owner and art historian (potato dumplings Roman-style with cream
Maria generously shares her knowledge of of pumpkin), as well as an impressive array of
Bologna and serves breakfasts featuring jams Lazio wines (try lesser-known drops such as
made with fruit picked near her childhood home Aleatico).
in the Dolomites.
4 Hotel Scalinata di Spagna Hotel $$
(%06 6994 0896; www.hotelscalinata.com;
Florence 6 Piazza della Trinità dei Monti 17; d €130-260;
aiW; mSpagna) Given its location –
5 I Due Fratellini Sandwiches $ perched alongside the Spanish Steps – the
(%055 239 60 96; www.iduefratellini.com; Via Scalinata is surprisingly modestly priced. An
dei Cimatori 38r; panini €3; h10am-7pm) This informal and friendly place, it’s something
hole-in-the-wall has been in business since of a warren, with a great roof terrace and low
1875. Wash panini down with a beaker of wine corridors leading off to smallish, old-fashioned
and leave the empties on the wooden shelf yet romantic rooms. Book early for a room with
outside. a view.
4 Palazzo Guadagni Hotel Hotel $$
(%055 265 83 76; www.palazzoguadagni.com; Naples 9
Piazza Santo Spirito 9; d €130-230; aW) This
romantic hotel overlooking Florence’s liveliest 4 Grand Hotel Vesuvio Hotel $$$
summertime square is legendary – Zeffirelli (%081 764 00 44; www.vesuvio.it; Via Partenope
shot scenes from Tea with Mussolini here. 45; s/d €280/310; aiW; g128 to Via
Housed in an artfully revamped Renaissance Santa Lucia) Known for hosting legends – past
palace, it has 15 spacious if old-fashioned rooms guests include Rita Hayworth and Humphrey
and an impossibly romantic loggia terrace with Bogart – this five-star heavyweight is a
wicker chairs and predictably dreamy views. decadent melange of dripping chandeliers,
period antiques and opulent rooms. Count
your lucky stars while drinking a martini at the
rooftop restaurant.

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