Page 421 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

DETOUR:
PUEBLA DE SANABRIA
Start: 5 Zamora
Northwest of Zamora, close to the Portuguese border, this captivating village is a
tangle of medieval alleyways that unfold around a 15th-century castle and trickle
down the hill. This is one of Spain’s loveliest hamlets and it’s well worth the detour,
or even stopping overnight: the quiet cobblestone lanes make it feel like you’ve
stepped back centuries. Wandering the village is alone worth the trip here but a
few attractions are worth tracking down. Crowning the village’s high point and
dominating its skyline for kilometres around, the Castillo (adult/child under 12yr €3/
free; h11am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 4-7pm Sun; pc) has some interesting displays on
local history, flora and fauna and superb views from the ramparts. Also at the top of
the village, the striking Plaza Mayor is surrounded by some fine historical buildings.
The 17th-century ayuntamiento (town hall) has a lovely arched facade and faces SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN
across the square to Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Azogue (admission free;
h11am-2pm & 4-8pm Sat & Sun), a pretty village church which was first built in the 12th
century. If you’re staying the night, the Posada Real La Cartería (%980 62 03 12;
www.lacarteria.com; Calle de Rúa 16; r from €81; aiW) captures the essence of Puebla
de Sanabria’s medieval appeal with both rooms and a restaurant.

and one that follows the explore this subdued en-
contours of the rolling hill core to the monumental 6 Toro
country of Castilla y León’s west. splendour of Salamanca.
Zamora is also one of With a name that
couldn’t be more Spanish
the best places to be
5 Zamora during Semana Santa, and a stirring history
If you’re arriving by with haunting proces- that overshadows its
road, first appearances sions of hooded penitents present, Toro is your
can be deceiving and, parading through the archetypal Castilian
town. It was here that
as in so many Spanish streets. Whatever time
towns, your introduction of year you’re here, Fernando and Isabel
to provincial Zamora is don’t miss the Museo de cemented their primacy
likely to be nondescript Semana Santa (%980 53 in Christian Spain at the
apartment blocks. But 22 95; semanasantadezamora. Battle of Toro in 1476.
The town sits on a rise
persevere as the casco com; Plaza de Santa María La
historico (old town) is Nueva; adult/child €4/1.50; high above the north
hauntingly beauti- h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, bank of Río Duero and
ful, with sumptuous 10am-2pm Sun). has a charming historic
medieval monuments centre with half-timbered
houses and Romanesque
that have earned Zamora 54 p424
the popular sobriquet The Drive » The A11 tracks churches. The high
‘Romanesque Museum’. east of Zamora – not far out point, literally, is the
Much of the old town along the sweeping plains that 12th-century Colegiata
is closed to motorised bake in summer, take the turn- Santa María La Mayor
transport and walking off to Toro. (Plaza de la Colegiata; admis-
is easily the best way to sion €2; h10.30am-2pm &
5.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun), which

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