Page 424 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

for lunch – try the roast lamb at The Drive » Take the E5
8 Peñafiel Asador Casa Brigant on Plaza south of Burgos but almost
Mayor. Sated, return to the
immediately after leaving the
Peñafiel is the gateway E5 and take it all the way into city’s southern outskirts, take
to the Ribera del Duero Burgos. the N234 turnoff and follow the
wine region and it’s an signs over gently undulating hills
appealing small town in TRIP HIGHLIGHT and through green valleys to the
its own right. At ground walled village of Covarrubias.
level, Plaza del Coso 9 Burgos
is one of Spain’s most Dominated by its Unesco TRIP HIGHLIGHT
stunningly picturesque World Heritage–listed a Covarrubias
plazas. This rectangular cathedral but with plenty
15th-century ‘square’ more to turn the head, Inhabiting a broad valley
was one of the first to be Burgos is one of Castilla in eastern Castilla y León
laid out for this purpose y León’s most captivating and spread out along
and is considered one towns. The extraordinary the shady banks of Río
of the most important Gothic Catedral (%947 20 Arlanza with a gorgeous
forerunners to the plazas 47 12; www.catedraldeburgos. riverside aspect, Covarru-
mayores (main squares) es; Plaza del Rey Fernando; bias is only a short step
across Spain. It’s still adult/child under 14yr incl mul- removed from the Middle
used for bullfights on tilingual audioguide €6/1.50; Ages. Once you pass
ceremonial occasions, h10am-6pm) is one of beneath the formidable
and it’s watched over by Spain’s glittering jewels stone archways that mark
SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN
distinctive half-wooden of religious architecture the village’s entrances,
facades. But no mat- and looms large over the Covarrubias takes visi-
ter where you are in city and skyline. Inside tors within its intimate
Peñafiel, your eyes will be is the last place of El Cid embrace with tightly
drawn to the Castillo de and there are numerous huddled and distinctive,
Peñafiel (Museo Provincial extravagant chapels, a arcaded half-timbered
del Vino; Peñafiel; castle €3, gilded staircase and a houses opening out onto
incl museum €7, audioguides splendid altar. Some of cobblestone squares. Sim-
€2; h11am-2.30pm & 4.30- the best cathedral views ply wandering around
8.30pm Tue-Sun), one of are from up the hill at the village is the main
Spain’s longest and nar- the lookout, just below pastime, and don’t miss
rowest castles (the walls the 9th-century Castillo the charming riverside
and towers stretch over de Burgos. Elsewhere in pathways or outdoor
200m but are little more town, two monasteries – tables that spill out onto
than 20m across). Within the Cartuja de Miraflores the squares. Otherwise,
the castle’s crenulated (%947 25 25 86; h10.15am- the main attraction is the
walls is the state-of-the- 3pm & 4-6pm Mon, Tue & Thu- Colegiata de San Cosme
art Museo Provincial Sat, 11am-3pm & 4-6pm Sun) y Damián (admission €2.50;
del Vino, the local wine and the Monasterio de h10.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon
museum that tells a las Huelgas (%947 20 16 & Wed-Sat, 4.30-6pm Sun),
comprehensive story of 30; www.monasteriodelashuel- which has the evocative
the region’s wines. gas.org; guided tours €7, Wed atmosphere of a mini ca-
free; h10am-1pm & 4-5.30pm thedral and Spain’s oldest
4 p425 still-functioning church
Tue-Sat, 10.30am-2pm Sun) –
The Drive » The N122 are worth seeking out, organ; note also the
continues east of Peñafiel. At while the city’s eating gloriously ostentatious
Aranda del Duero, turn north scene is excellent. altar, fronted by several
along the E5 and make for Roman stone tombs, plus
Lerma, an ideal place to stop 54 p412, p425 that of Fernán González,

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