Page 54 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)
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baroque cathedral. A
          SEAPLANES ON THE LAKE                great deal more interest-
                                               ing is the Basilica di
          For a touch of Hollywood glamour, check out Aero   Santa Maria Maggiore
          Club Como (%031 57 44 95; www.aeroclubcomo.com;   (Piazza Duomo; h9am-
          Viale Masia 44; 30min flight from €140), which has been   12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Apr-Oct,
          sending seaplanes out over the lakes since 1930.   shorter hours Nov-Mar) next
          The 30-minute flight to Bellagio from Como costs   door. To its whirl of fres-
          €140 for two people. Longer excursions over Lake   coed, Romanesque apses,
          Maggiore are also possible. In summer you need to   begun in 1137, Gothic
          reserve at least three days in advance.  touches were added as
                                               was the Renaissance
                                               Cappella Colleoni (Piazza
        the palace in 1847 as a   family in the 17th cen-  Duomo; h9am-12.30pm &
        wedding present from   tury. In both cases, you   2-6.30pm Mar-Oct, 9am-
        her mother.         can stroll through the   12.30pm & 2-4.30pm Tue-Sun
                            verdant gardens admir-
        The Drive » As with the trip to        Nov-Feb), the mausoleum-
        Tremezzo, the best way to travel   ing magnolias, camellias   cum-chapel of the famous
        to Varenna is by passenger   and exotic yuccas.  mercenary commander,
        ferry either from Tremezzo or   The Drive » Departing Bellagio,   Bartolomeo Colleoni
        Bellagio.
                            pick up the SS583, but this   (1696–1770). Demolish-
                            time head southeast towards   ing an entire apse of
                            Lecco down the other ‘leg’   the basilica, he commis-
     ITALY 2 THE GRAcEFUL ITALIAN LAKES
        8 Varenna           of Lago di Como. As with the   sioned Giovanni Antonio
        Wander the flower-laden   stretch from Como to Bellagio,   Amadeo to create a tomb
        pathway from Piazzale   the road hugs the lake, offering   that is now considered a
        Martiri della Libertà   spectacular views the whole   masterpiece of Lombard
                            20km to Lecco. Once you reach
        to the gardens of Villa   Lecco head south out of town   art with its exuberant
        Cipressi (%0341 83 01 13;   down Via Industriale and pick up   rococo frescoes by Giam-
        www.hotelvillacipressi.it; Via   the SS342 for the final 40km to   battista Tiepolo.
        IV Novembre 22; adult/child   Bergamo.   Also like Venice,
        €4/2; h10am-6pm Mar-                   Bergamo has a grand
        Oct), now a luxury hotel               art academy. Recently
        (singles €140 to €160,   9 Bergamo     reopened after a seven
        doubles €170 to €230),   Although Milan’s sky-  year renovation, the
        and, 100m further south,   scrapers are visible on   Accademia Carrara
        Villa Monastero (%0341   a clear day, historically   (%035 23 43 96; www.
        29 54 50; www.villamonastero.  Bergamo was more close-  lacarrara.it; Piazza Carrara 82;
        eu; Via IV Novembre; villa &   ly associated with Venice   adult/reduced €10/8; h10am-
        gardens adult/reduced €8/4,   (Venezia). Hence the   7pm) is both school and
        gardens only €5/2; hgardens   elegant Venetian-style   museum, its stunning
        9.30am-7pm year-round, villa   architecture of Piazza   collection of 1800 Renais-
        10am-6pm Fri-Sun Mar-May   Vecchia, appreciated   sance paintings amassed
        & Oct, 2-6pm Wed, 9.30am-  by Le Corbusier for its   by local scholar Count
        7pm Thu-Sun Jun, Jul & Sep,   beautiful and harmoni-  Giacomo Carrara.
        9.30am-7pm Aug, 11am-5pm   ous arrangement.
        Nov), a former convent   Behind this secular   54 p53
        turned into a vast   core sits the Piazza del
        residence by the Mornico   Duomo with its modest




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