Page 576 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Stiftskirche (which has a
TOP TIP: Kremser Schmidt work
DANUBE CRUISES in the crypt). Best of all
is the opportunity to sip
Floating past vine-covered banks crowned by wine made here by the
castles gives you a different perspective of the river. monks – including an
From Passau, Wurm + Köck (%0851-929 292; www. exquisite Messwein rosé –
donauschiffahrt.de; Höllgasse 26) operates cruises between on the panoramic garden
Regensburg, Germany, and Vienna from March to early terrace above the valley
November. One-way/return tickets for one stop start (you can also buy it at the
from €10.50/11.50; 10-stop tickets start from €26/29. abbey’s shop).
The Drive » From Stift
Göttweig, it’s 79km to Vienna.
has an attractive cobbled The most scenic route, through
centre and gallery-dotted farmland and forest, is south on
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Kunstmeile (Art Mile; www. the L100 to St Pölten, then east
7 Dürnstein kunstmeile-krems.at). Its flag- on the L120 to join the eastbound
Picturesque Dürnstein ship is the Kunsthalle (www. B44 at Ebersberg. Continue
through the Wienerwald to the
is best known for the kunsthalle.at; Franz-Zeller-Platz Austrian capital.
Kuenringerburg – the 3; admission €10; h10am-5pm
now-ruined castle above Tue-Sun), a collection of gal-
AUSTRIA 40 ALONG THE DANuBE
the town where Richard leries and museums, with TRIP HIGHLIGHT
the Lionheart (Richard I of changing exhibitions. a Vienna
England) was imprisoned 4 p575 Renowned for its imperial
from 1192 to 1193, before palaces, baroque interiors,
being moved to Burg The Drive » Leave Krems opera houses and mag-
Trifels (p178) in Germany. an der Donau on the B37 and nificent squares, Vienna is
Of the 16th-century cross the southbound L100. also one of Europe’s most
buildings lining Dürn- Stift Göttweig is well signposted dynamic urban spaces. The
(9km altogether from Krems).
stein’s hilly, cobbled best way to experience its
streets, the Chorherren- blend of old and new is on
stift (www.stiftduernstein.at; TRIP HIGHLIGHT a walking tour (p578).
Stiftshof; adult/child €3/1.50; 9 Stift Göttweig A wonderfully atmos-
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am- Surrounded by grape- pheric (if touristy) alterna-
6pm Sun Apr-Oct) is the most laden vines, Unesco World tive is aboard a Fiaker (up to
impressive. It’s all that Heritage–listed Stift 4 passengers 20min/40min/1hr
remains of the former Göttweig (Göttweig Abbey; tour €55/80/110), which is
Augustinian monastery %02732-855 81-0; www.stift- a traditional-style open
originally founded in 1410, goettweig.at; Furth bei Göttweig; carriage drawn by a pair
and received its baroque adult/child €7.50/4; h9am- of horses. Drivers point out
facelift in the 18th century.
6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct- places of interest en route.
The Drive » Head east along May) was founded in 1083, Lines of horses, carriages
the river on the B3 for 7.5km to but the abbey you see and bowler-hatted drivers
reach Krems an der Donau. today is mostly baroque. can be found at Stephans-
Highlights include the platz, Albertinaplatz
Imperial Staircase with and Heldenplatz at the
8 Krems an der a heavenly ceiling fresco Hofburg.
Donau painted by Paul Troger in Or survey the city
Against a backdrop of 1739, and the over-the-top from Vienna’s 65m-high,
terraced vineyards, Krems baroque interior of the 1897-built Ferris wheel, the
Riesenrad. It’s located at
574