Page 577 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Eating & Sleeping

glass-and-concrete cube reveals streamlined
Passau 1 interiors in pristine whites and blond wood that
reveal a Nordic-style aesthetic. Wind down with
5 Heilig-Geist-Stifts- a view at the rooftop spa.
Schenke Bavarian €€
(%0851-2607; www.stiftskeller-passau.de;
Heilig-Geist-Gasse 4; mains €10-20; h11am- Krems an der Donau 8
11pm, closed Wed; W) Not only does this 4 Arte Hotel Krems Design Hotel €€
historical inn have a succession of walnut-
panelled ceramic-stove-heated rooms, a (%02732-711 23; www.arte-hotel.at; Dr-Karl-
candlelit cellar (from 6pm) and a vine-draped Dorrek-Strasse 23; s/d €109/159; pW)
garden, but the food is equally inspired. Amid This cutting-edge art hotel has 91 large,
the river fish, steaks and seasonal dishes there well-designed rooms scattered with big retro AUSTRIA 40 ALONG THE DANuBE
are quite gourmet affairs such as beef fillet in prints and patterns complementing the funky
flambéed cognac sauce. Help it all along with ’60s-style furniture.
one of the many Austrian and German wines
in stock.
Vienna a
4 Hotel Schloss Ort Boutique Hotel €€
(%0851-340 72; www.hotel-schloss-ort.de; 5 Bierhof Austrian €
Im Ort 11; s €68-121, d €97-184; pW) This (%01-533 44 28; http://bierhof.at; 01, Haarhof
800-year-old medieval palace by the Inn River 3; mains €10-19; h11.30am-11.30pm; W;
conceals a tranquil boutique hotel, stylishly mHerrengasse) A narrow passageway opens
done out with polished timber floors, crisp white to a courtyard where umbrella-shaded tables
cotton sheets and wrought-iron bedsteads. beneath the trees make a charming spot to dine
Many of the 18 rooms enjoy river views and on homemade classics like Eiernockerl (flour-
breakfast is served in the vaulted restaurant. and-egg dumplings), Tiroler Groest’l (pork,
Parking is an extra €4. potatoes and bacon, topped with a fried egg),
Tiroler Leber (liver dumplings with apple sauce
and green beans) and Weiner Schnitzel with
Linz 3 parsley potatoes. The bar stays open until late.
5 k.u.k. Hofbäckerei Cafe € 4 Hotel Capricorno Hotel €€
(Pfarrgasse 17; coffee & cake €3-6; h6.30am- (%01-533 31 04-0; www.schick-hotels.com/
6.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-12.30pm Sat) The Empire hotel-capricorno; 01, Schwedenplatz 3-4; s/d
lives on at this gloriously stuck-in-time cafe. from €120/150; pW; mSchwedenplatz)
Here Fritz Rath bakes the best Linzer Torte in Behind an unpromising mid-20th-century
town – rich, spicy and with lattice pastry that facade, Hotel Capricorno was stunningly made
crumbles just so. over in 2015 in lustrous velveteens in zesty lime,
orange, lemon and aubergine shades. Most
4 Hotel am Domplatz Design Hotel €€ of its 42 rooms have balconies (front rooms
(%0732-77 30 00; www.hotelamdomplatz.at; overlook the Danube Canal but rear rooms are
Stifterstrasse 4; d €125-145, ste €300; aiW) quieter). Rare-for-Vienna parking is available for
Sidling up to the neo-Gothic Neuer Dom, this just €23 per day. It’s a 10-minute walk from the
Stephansdom.

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