Page 109 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - New York City
P. 109

GREENWICH  VILLA GE      107


       south of 14th Street and west of   The Draft Riots of 1863 took   moved, court sessions had been
       9th Avenue, the neighborhood is   place here. Over a century later,   discontinued, the four-sided
       now dotted with trendy clubs,   another disturbance rocked   clock had stopped, and the
       lounges, and boutique hotels   the square. The Stone wall   building was threatened
       that swell with New Yorkers   Inn on Christopher Street   with demolition. In the 1950s,
       out for a good time. The   (the inn that stands today   preservationists campaigned
       neighborhood’s hipness   is not the original) was   first to restore the clock and
       factor rose when Soho     a gay bar, at a time   then the whole building. Its
       House, the New York       when such bars were   renovation was undertaken by
       branch of the London     illegal, that had stayed   architect Giorgio Cavaglieri, who
       private members’ club,   in business by paying off   preserved many of the original
       moved in, followed by the   the police. On June 28,   details, including the stained
       classy Hotel Gansevoort,   1969, the patrons   glass and a spiral staircase
       with its rooftop swimming   rebelled, and in the   that now leads to the library’s
       pool. Fashion able designers,   pitched battle that   dungeonlike reference room.
       including Stella McCartney and   ensued police officers
       Marc Jacobs, have outlets here;   were barricaded inside
       upscale restaurants       the bar. It was a
       have opened; and new       landmark victory
       nightclubs and bars        for the budding gay
       pop up every month.        rights movement
         The great allures of     and the Village
       the Meatpacking District   Statue of General Sheridan  remains a focus
       are the Whitney   in Christopher Park  for the city’s gay
       Museum of American         community.
       Art (see pp108–9), and the High
       Line (see p134), which begins on
       Gansevoort Street. The face of the   8 Jefferson Market
       neighborhood may be forever   Courthouse
       changed, but club-hoppers might
       still catch the occasional whiff of   425 Ave of the Americas. Map 4 D1.
       the meat-processing business that   Tel (212) 243-4334. q W 4th
       gave the area its name.  St-Washington Sq. Open 10am–8pm
                           Mon & Wed, 11am–6pm Tue & Thu,   “Old Jeff,” the pointed tower of Jefferson
                           10am–5pm Fri & Sat. Closed public   Market Courthouse
                           hols. 7 ∑ nypl.org
                           This treasured Village landmark   9 Patchin Place
                           was saved from the wrecking   W 10th St. Map 4 D1. q W 4th St-
                           ball and converted into a branch   Washington Sq.
                           of the New York Public Library
                           through a spirited preservation   One of many delightful and
                           campaign that began at a   unexpected pockets in the
                           Christmas party in the late 1950s.  Village is this tiny block of small
                             In 1833 the site became a   residences. It is lined with
                           market named after former   ailanthus trees that were
                           president Thomas Jefferson. Its   planted in order to “absorb the
                           fire lookout tower had a giant   bad air.” The houses were built in
                           bell that was rung to alert the   the mid-19th century for Basque
       A busy street in the trendy    neighborhood’s volunteer   waiters working at the Brevoort
       Meatpacking District  firefighters. In 1865, the   Hotel on Fifth Avenue.
                           founding of the municipal fire     Later, the houses became
                           department made the bell   fashionable addresses, with
       7 Sheridan Square   obsolete, and the Third Judicial   many writers living here. The
                           District, or Jefferson Market,   poet E. E. Cummings lived at No.
       Map 3 C2. q Christopher St-   Courthouse was built. With its   4 from 1923 until his death in
       Sheridan Sq.
                           Venetian Gothic-style spires and   1962. The English poet laureate
       This square, where seven streets   turrets, it was named one of the   John Masefield also lived on the
       converge, is the heart of the   ten most beautiful buildings in   block, as did the playwright
       Village. It was named for the    the country when it opened in   Eugene O’Neill and John Reed,
       Civil War General Philip Sheridan,   1877. The old fire bell was   whose eyewitness account of
       who became commander in   installed in the tower. Here, in   the Russian Revolution, Ten Days
       chief of the US Army in 1883.    1906, Harry Thaw was tried for   That Shook The World was made
       His statue stands in nearby   Stanford White’s murder (see   into a film, Reds (1981), directed
       Christopher Park.   p122). By 1945, the market had   by Warren Beatty.




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