Page 128 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba

126 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Culture and critical statements in and burgers (of vastly
Etiquette public. Any tourist who varying quality) are
meets with dissidents now numerous.
Cubans generally dress or visits “independent No community in Cuba
informally but are usually libraries” is also likely is now without at least
smartly turned out. to face problems with one paladar, including the
Top restaurants require the Cuban authorities. beach resorts, such as
trousers as opposed to Bureaucracy pervades Varadero, where private
jeans or shorts for men. every aspect of Cuban life restaurants had been
A collared shirt is a good involving the State. Most previously banned.
idea for meetings. services oriented toward Trinidad has also seen
It is common courtesy tourism function fluidly, an explosion of quality
to ask permission before although unbending paladares. Virtually
taking a photograph of regulations can make everywhere beyond
any individual, but this dealing with businesses Havana, paladares tend
especially applies to and especially government to be packed with locals.
members of the police institutions an extremely Dishes are often simple,
and military personnel. frustrating experience. but always filling and
Photographing industrial usually of surprisingly
complexes, airports, ports, Dining high quality – and almost
and military installations always better than the
is strictly prohibited. Long gone are the days state­run restaurants,
Cuba enjoys harmo­ when visitors justifiably which the government
nious relations between complained about stodgy intends eventually to
races, and mixed­race cuisine and boring eliminate entirely.
marriages are common. menus. Standards have Beach resort hotels
However, racism has not improved vastly since usually have a choice
been entirely eradicated, 2011, when Raúl Castro of restaurants offering
and black youths are the ended most restrictions international cuisine and
most likely targets. on private restaurants the option of à la carte or
Civility is important and initiated reforms in smorgasbord­style buffet
to Cubans, who greet farming and food sales. dining (know as mesa
everyone in a room when Havana has experienced sueca, meaning “Swiss
entering. Women will a culinary revolution of buffet”), usually included
embrace and kiss each sorts, with scores of in your all­inclusive rate.
other’s cheeks, while men new paladares (private Budget travelers will
shake hands. Common restaurants), many find all manner of snacks
greetings that you will of them world­class. sold at cafés and street­
hear (and ideally use) It’s now possible to dine side stalls. Almost all of
everywhere are buenos well every day of the week these sell the ubiquitous
días (good morning), on globe­spanning ham and cheese bocadito
buenas tardes (good menus, although the (sandwich) and/or simple
afternoon), and buenas most consistently cajita (boxed lunches).
noches (good evening). rewarding dining is still Caution should be used
The Cuban government often found in restaurants when buying food items
is highly sensitive to that specialize in Cuban at streetside stalls, where
criticism of the Cuban fare. Even many of the hygiene may be question­
system. Secret police and state­run restaurants able. When buying ice
informers are ubiquitous. have improved. Some cream, stick to Coppelia –
For this reason, Cubans paladares wouldn’t seem the state­run chain, with
are extremely wary about out of place in New York outlets in most major
discussing politics with or London for their chic cities – or Nestlé, sold
people they do not know ambiance; others, such in shops nationwide.
or trust. Avoid drawing as Havana’s La Guarida Every community has at
people into conversations (see p79) occupy gorgeous least one agromercado
about politics, except in but dilapidated buildings. (produce market), where
private, and foreigners And private restaurants you can buy fresh fruit and
should avoid making specializing in pizza vegetables for pesos.

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