Page 89 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
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Western Cuba  ❮❮  87

         Nueva Gerona
     9                         NORTH COAST DRIVE
         MAP D4  •  Iglesia Nuestra
     Señora de los Dolores: (46) 32 3791;
     hours vary  •  Museo de Historia     Latin American  Havana
                                            School for
                                      Bahía
     Natural: (46) 32 3143; open 8am–5pm   Cayo  Honda  Medical Sciences
     Tue–Sat, 8am–noon Sun; adm  Levisa   CN      A4
                                La
     The sleepy capital city of Isla de la   Palma  Las  Mariel
     Juventud has a graceful colonial core   Pozas  Soroa
     of venerable one-story buildings with   Pan de  CC
     columns supporting red-tiled roofs.   Viñales  Guajaibón
     The Iglesia Nuestra Señora de los   A4
     Dolores is a lovely church on the   MORNING
     main plaza, with a small museum.
     The Museo de Historia Natural shows   Leave Havana in a rental car
     re-creations of local natural habitats.   and head west along Avenue
                                 5ta, which leads past the Latin
                                 American School for Medical
                                 Sciences, where inter national
                                 students receive free medical
                                 training. Pass through the port
                                 town of Mariel, onto Carretera
                                 2-1-3, a winding and gently
                                 rolling road frequented by
                                 ox-drawn carts. After about two
                                 hours of driving past sugarcane
                                 fields, turn south at the sign for
                                 Soroa (see p85) and follow the
                                 road as it curls uphill through
     The derelict Presidio Modelo  pine forest. Take the time to
                                 explore the orchid garden
         Presidio Modelo
     0                           and hike the short trail to the
                                 Cascadas El Salto water fall.
         MAP D4  •  (46) 32 5112  •  Open
     8am–4pm Tue–Sat, 8am–noon Sun    Enjoy lunch at one of the restau-
     •  Adm (extra charge for cameras)  rants in the area before you go.
     This former penitentiary (see p38) on   AFTERNOON
     the outskirts of Nueva Gerona was
     built in 1926. In October 1953, Fidel   Returning to the highway, con-
     Castro and 25 other revolutionaries   tinue west through the towns
     were imprisoned here after the failed   of Bahía Honda and Las Pozas,
                                 with the Sierra del Rosario
     attack on the Moncada barracks (see   moun tains to the south. The Pan
     p37). Today the prison hospital is a   de Guajaibón – a dramatic mogote
     museum recalling the 20 months   – can be reached by turning south
     they spent here. Castro’s room still   at the hamlet of Rancho Canelo.
     contains the collection of books he   Farther west beyond Las Pozas,
     used to instruct fellow prisoners.  turn north for the ferry dock
                                 to Cayo Levisa (see p85), where
                                 you can enjoy an overnight stay
      CORK PALM                  at a charming hotel. Boats depart
                                 at 10am and 6pm. Alternatively,
      Found only in a few tiny pockets    continue west beyond La Palma
      of the Sierra del Rosario, Cuba’s   to Viñales. The road cuts through
      endemic Palma corcho is a primitive   tobacco fields before emerging
      member of the cycad family. Growing    in the Valle de San Vicente. Turn
      in an ecosystem badly threatened by   southward at the T-junction for
      deforestation, the species reproduces   Viñales. Two affordable hotels
      with difficulty, although individual   sit atop mogotes and casas
      palms live to be more than 300 years.   particulares (private rooms)
      As a result, this so-called “living fossil”   are also available.
      faces possible extinction.
                                           See map on pp84–5
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