Page 97 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
P. 97

Central Cuba West  ❮❮  95

         Remedios
     8                         JAGÜEY GRANDE
                               TO CIENFUEGOS DRIVE
         MAP H3  •  Museo de la Música
     Alejandro García Caturla: (42) 39   A1  Central
     6851; open 9am–noon, 1–5pm Tue–  Australia  A1
     Sat, 9am–noon Sun; adm  •  Museo    La Boca de Guamá,
     de las Parrandas: open 9am–noon,   Centro Ecológico  CS
     1–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun; adm  Zapata    Swamps  Bermejas
                                 Playa
     Founded in 1578, this is one of    Larga
     Cuba’s most charming colonial cities.   Museo Girón  Cienfuegos
     The Museo de la Música Alejandro   Playa
                                  Girón
     García Caturla displays musical     Caleta Buena
     instru ments, while the Museo de las   MORNING
     Parrandas exhibits objects linked
     to the city’s famous Christmas   Start your day early with a visit
     festival (see p69).         to Central Australia (see p19).
                                 After a brief tour, including a
                                 possible steam-train ride, drive
                                 south along the ruler-straight
                                 road with the grassy swamps
                                 of Zapata (see pp18–19) on each
                                 side. Stop off at La Boca de
                                 Guamá to see the crocodiles
                                 and then at Centro Ecológico,
                                 where an ecological trail lets
                                 you experi ence the Zapata
                                 ecosystems first-hand. At Playa
                                 Larga, follow the main road south
                                 along the shoreline toward Playa
                                 Girón. Take time to browse the
                                 Bay of Pigs exhibits and displays
     Colonnaded buildings in Remedios  (see p37) at the fascinating Museo
                                 Girón (see p19) then con tinue
         Sierra del Escambray
     9                           5 miles (8 km) east to Caleta
                                 Buena (see p19). Enjoy lunch
         MAP H3
     Spanning three provinces, this rugged   and an hour or two snorkeling
                                 in this sheltered cove. Note that
     mountain range rises inland from the   in March and April, the road is
     Caribbean coast, reaching 3,790 ft   smothered with crabs migrating
     (1,155 m) atop Pico San Juan. Coffee   inland to spawn. They are a
     is farmed on the lower slopes, while   hazard; ensure that your tires
     the densely forested upper slopes   have plenty of tread to reduce
     are of great ecological value for    the chance of getting a puncture
                                 from broken shells.
     their plants and profuse birdlife.
     Topes de Collantes (see p51) offers   AFTERNOON
     accom modation and is a base for
     guided nature hikes.        Retrace your path to Playa Girón
                                 and turn north; the route is
         Caibarién
     0                           potholed in places. At Bermejas,
                                 turn right. Observe daily rural
         MAP H3
     A once-important port town that still   Cuban life in the remote settle-
                                 ments you pass through. Turn
     lives partly off its humble fishing   right onto Carretera 3-1-2, the
     fleet, sprawling Caibarién has a   main highway that leads to the
     dishevelled countenance and awaits   well-planned maritime city of
     a renaissance of its incredible wealth   Cienfuegos. Spend the rest of the
     of architecture, with buildings from   day admiring its Neo-Classical
     Neo-Classical to Art Nouveau   structures, ending with a seafood
                                 meal at the exotic Palacio del
     centered on Parque de la Libertad.   Valle (see p99).
     The town also has beaches, and
     mangroves teeming with birds.
                                           See map on pp92–3
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