Page 136 - homestyle New Zealand (February - March 2020)

LIVING —— Design destination

S C

U R

B A

U W

R L

B With just 36 hours

A to spend in Tokyo,
editor Alice Lines

N took it slow.

Tokyo is one of those cities where no
matter how long you stay, you’re only
ever going to scratch the surface. It’d
been five years since I last visited, and
this time, rather than hit up the central
haunts, with the help of travel providers
JTB I prepared an itinerary that took
in lesser-known sights in Setagaya and
Meguro. It’s an area in which you can
get a sense of the laid- back suburban
lifestyle just a short train ride from the
inner-city action.
I stayed in Futako Tamagawa, a
neighbourhood built along the Tama
River that’s commonly rated one of
the city’s best places to live thanks to in a steaming pot of broth) and pickled was diverted by Japanese labels Muji
its green spaces and modern shopping. daikon. This feast had me fuelled up and Uniqlo, and the international
Hipster mums cruise the streets on their for a full day of exploring. brands including Céline, Bottega
mamachari bikes with kids strapped in With not much else open before Veneta and APC across the road at
front and back, while chic commuters 11am in Japan, I made the most of the upscale department store Takashimaya.
bustle in and out of the station, totes morning with a visit to a Buddhist But Takashimaya also proved a handy
and bumbags slung effortlessly across shrine. Gotokuji Temple features connection to my destination, a
their tan trench coats. a lovely pagoda and main hall in a shotengai shopping street lined with
There’s a thriving third-wave coffee delightful garden setting, but what stores and hole-in-the-wall eateries
scene in Tokyo, but brunch culture is I was really there for were the waving — a slice of real suburban life.
yet to hit, so a hotel breakfast makes for cats. Legend has it that this temple is One tiny spot after another offered
a convenient start to the day. The buffet the birthplace of the world-famous intriguing goods and services: a flower
at Futakotamagawa Excel Tokyu Hotel maneki-neko (beckoning cat) good-luck shop with potted plants spilling onto
offers a wide range of European options, charm, so I said a prayer for prosperity the curb; a soba stand with a queue
but I’m a fan of eating like a local, so and left with a glow of good vibes. for lunch and only four seats inside
I opted for the traditional Japanese Heading back to Futako Tamagawa, at the counter; a candy store serving
breakfast, which included half a I was keen to get to the authentic samples of traditional wagashi sweets;
dozen delicious morsels such as miso heart of matters. On the short walk newcomer Let It Be Coffee selling
soup, tamagoyaki (a rolled omelette), from the train station through the espresso, paper-drip and V60-brewed
shabu shabu (fresh vegetables dipped Rise shopping centre, my attention coffee. Another true gem in this area Photography: Alice Lines

ABOVE A classic shotengai, home to small independent stores and eateries serving comfort food. OPPOSITE, TOP LEFT A stone’s throw from the main shopping spot,
Futakotamagawa Park is landscaped around a tranquil pond and teahouse. TOP RIGHT Maneki-neko at Gotokuji Temple. BOTTOM LEFT Kohoro gallery hosts the work of local
artisans with a special interest in ceramics. BOTTOM RIGHT Commuters’ bikes are stored outside the train stations. To keep my trip simple, I stuck to sights on the Tokyu line.

134 homestyle