Page 133 - homestyle New Zealand (February - March 2020)

Design destination —— LIVING

bamboo baskets that open to reveal
steamed savoury morsels, an outdoor
cooking area where you can prepare
your own meals over steam vents,
and an on-site onsen. Ryokan owners
take pride in hosting their guests, and
at Yanagiya, owner Eiko Hashimoto was
kind enough to take me on a morning
walk to show me sights otherwise hidden
among the winding cobbled streets.
Okamotoya is another charming
ryokan. On the hillside in Beppu, it has
a view across to Beppu Myoban Bridge
arching over the bay. Sliding shoji
screens separated my room from the
corridor, and inside the tatami flooring
was sparsely decorated with little more
than a chabudai dining table and a
futon that’s whipped out before bed.
That night, I enjoyed a multi-course
kaiseki dinner of famed Oita wagyu, a
series of dishes carefully prepared with
a focus on ingredients harvested from
the surrounding area and ocean, and
Beppu’s signature pudding, steamed
crème caramel. After dinner, my
gracious host Nobuko Iwase showed
me how to create an ikebana floral
arrangement, and I was quietly chuffed
that my efforts were deemed worthy
of being displayed in the corridor.
Having been treated to all sorts
of local delicacies during my stay
in Oita, I ended the week on a fun
note with an okonomiyaki (savoury
pancake) at Bari Bari. Falling into the
category of ‘B-grade gourmet’, which
is a thing in Japan, this mom-and-
pop eatery epitomises the craft of
comfort food and colloquial chat
at an appealing price.
Sated, I returned to my hotel
to repack my carry-on filled with
carefully wrapped packages in
preparation for an early-morning
transit to Fukuoka Airport. The
ceramics, bamboo wares and textiles
I collected from the artisans’ studios
I visited will forever be a reminder of
ABOVE Kannawa — one of eight neighbourhoods in Beppu hosting all things hot springs — is a wonderful spot the abundant culture Oita has to share.
to explore on foot. Take a stroll along the cobbled streets to discover all the ways in which locals use steam in Alice journeyed to Oita with Japanese
everyday life. The accommodation on offer is predominantly ryokans, and the one I stayed at, Yanagiya, has
been sensitively renovated to celebrate the welcoming mood this style of stay is known for. travel experts jtboi.co.nz. >

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