Page 117 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sardinia
P. 117

CENTR AL  SARDINIA  AND  BARBA GIA      115


                           of the highest peak on the island.  on specially shaped stone
                           There are plans to give the area   moulds. The inhabitants will
                           National Park status, incorpora-  be more than willing to tell
                           ting it into the Gennargentu   you how to arrange to see
                           National Park. Dèsulo is a favou-  craftsmen at work and
                           rite destination for hikers keen    purchase traditional rugs.
                           to climb up Gennargentu and   The atmosphere of a typical
                           Punta La Marmora (see p86). As   mountain village can still be
                           groups of walkers become more  seen in the shepherds’ houses,
                           common, a number of hotels   which have not changed in
                           and hostels catering for this   over a century.
                           form of tourism have been built.    Tonara is another popular
                                               starting point for excursions to
                                               the Gennargentu massif. One
                           a Tonara            of the most interesting is the
                                               tour to Punta Mungianeddu
                           Road map C4. * 2,600. n Town
                           Hall (0784 63 823). _ second Sun    (1,467 m, 4,800 ft). A road
       Overlooking Dèsulo  in Aug: Sagra del Torrone.   climbs through holm oak and
       p Dèsulo            ∑ comunetonara.gov.it  chestnut woods to reach the
                                               summit, from which there
                           In the past the economy of   are magnificent views.
       Road map C4. * 3,200. n Town
       Hall (0784 61 92 11). _ second Sun   Tonara was based largely on the
       of Pentecost, Corpus Domini.   chestnut and hazelnut groves
       ∑ comune.desulo.nu.it  that surround the town, and
                           on other products typical of a
       Perched at an altitude of 895 m   mountain environment. Since
       (2,900 ft) on the slopes of   tourism discovered this side of
       Gennargentu, the       the mountain, the local
       village of Dèsulo was   production of cow bells,
       not converted to         torrone (nougat) and
       Christianity or ruled by   hand-woven rugs
       outsiders until the 7th   has become famous.
       century. Unfortunately,   During the local
       unregulated building   Chestnuts  festivals in the town
       development has had a    square, blacksmiths
       devastating impact on    forge the celebrated Tonara   Stone used as a mould for making cow
       the village and has almost   bells by hammering the metal   bells at Tonara
       eliminated the traditional schist
       houses. It is still quite common,
       however, to see villagers in   Sardinian Nougat
       traditional dress.   Nougat (torrone in Italian) is one of the most common sweets
         The local economy is based   in the culture and tradition of central Sardinia. Every local fair
       on sheep-raising and the   or festival will have stalls selling the delicious, hard nougat made
       ancient tradition of cultivating   in Tonara, Dèsulo or one of the other mountain villages. The main
       the chestnut groves and   ingredients are almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts, various qualities
       mountain pastures. In the past   of honey and egg whites (in some cases the yolk is also used).
       the inhabitants, skilled in wood-  Cooking – during which the mixture has to be stirred continuously –
       carving, used to travel to the   takes more than 5 hours. The different styles of nougat
       various markets and fairs      are created by variations in the type of honey,
       throughout Sardinia to sell       the flavour of the nuts or number
       their hand-made spoons,             of eggs used. There are many nougat
       cutting boards and other               confectioners and, no matter how
                                                big or small the premises,
       wooden objects, as well as                visitors are always welcome
       locally grown chestnuts.                   to watch the preparation
         The parish church of                     and choose a favourite
       Sant’ Antonio Abate, and                   flavour. Blocks of nougat
       other churches such as the                  are cut for you while
       Madonna del Carmelo and                     you wait. One excellent
       San Sebastiano, are worth a                outlet is Torronificio Marotto
       visit for a series of colourful            in Tonara, at No. 6 Via
       wooden statues sculpted in the             Roma; they make
       mid-1600s. But the main reason             particularly delicious
       to visit this village is its natural   The Nougat Festival at Tonara  and fragrant nougat.
       scenery and the splendid views




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