Page 112 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sardinia

110  SARDINIA AREA B Y AREA

Murals in Sardinia
Sardinian murals began to appear on
walls at Orgòsolo in the 1960s and soon
became a feature of many of the island’s
villages and towns. The most famous
of these is San Sperate (see p66),
the home town of the artist
Pinuccio Sciola. The themes
of this particular artistic genre
are satirical, political or social.
The styles vary greatly but
are always characterized by Mural on a wall at San Sperate
Mural at Orgòsolo bright colours. Even
in the open country
you may come across faces, shapes, hands
and penetrating stares painted onto the
boulders, rocks or cliffs. The Associazione
Italiana Paesi Dipinti (Italian Association
of Painted Towns) was founded to
preserve and publicize the towns with
these murals and also to encourage
creativity and cultural exchange
between different regions. A mural painted on rock near Orgòsolo

q Orgòsolo Pietro retains its 15th-century w Gavoi
bell tower. Traditional dress, a
Road map D3. * 4,800. Road map C3. * 3,100. n Town
n Town Hall (0784 40 09 01). brightly coloured apron embroi- Hall (0784 531 97). _ last Sun of
_ first Sun of Jun: Sant’Anania; dered with geometric patterns Jul: rural festival at Sanctuary of the
15 Aug: Festa dell’Assunta. and a saffron-yellow headscarf, is Madonna d’Itria; second Sun after
∑ comune.orgosolo.nu.it still worn by some local women. Easter: Sant’Antioco’s feast day.
In summer two popular local ∑ comune.gavoi.nu.it
This characteristic village in the festivals draw large crowds: the
interior of the island has been Assumption Day Festival on 15 For many centuries this village
compared to an eagle’s nest and August and Sant’Anania’s feast was famous in Sardinia for the
a fortress, perched precariously day on the first Sunday of June. production of harnesses and
on the mountainside. The bridles. Today its most character-
villagers are known as rugged Environs istic product is cheese, including
and hardy shepherds, proud of Just outside Orgòsolo is the fiore sardo pecorino, made
their lifestyle and traditions. 17th-century church of from sheep’s milk (see p183). The
Rampant banditry in the 1960s Sant’Anania. The church was centre of town is dominated by
was documented in Vittorio De built where the saint’s relics the pink façade of the 14th-
Seta’s film Bandits at Orgòsolo, are said to have been found. century church of San Gavino,
in which the hard life of the Orgòsolo is an ideal starting which overlooks the square of
shepherds and their mistrust point for ex cursions up the same name. Some
of the government is narrated to the sur rounding of Gavoi’s oldest
with cool detachment. The Supramonte and most
passion of the locals for social mountains, char acteristic
and political issues is also visible where open streets begin
in the hundreds of murals pastures are here. A stroll down
painted on the walls of houses interspersed with Sculpted detail on San these narrow alleys will
and on the rocks around dense forests of oak. Gavino, Gavoi reveal historic buildings
Orgòsolo. The images describe A road leads to the with dark stone façades
the harsh life of the shepherds, Funtana Bona, 18 km (11 miles) and balconies overflowing with
their struggles to keep their south of Orgòsolo. These flowers, such as the two-storey
land and Sardinian traditions, as natural springs emerge at an building on Via San Gavino.
well as injustices committed in altitude of 1,082 m (3,550 ft), at In the little church of Sant’
other parts of the world. the foot of the limestone peak Antioco, in the upper part
Simple low stone houses line of Monte Novo San Giovanni, of town, dozens of ex votos
the steep and narrow streets of 1,316 m (4,316 ft) high. From in gold and silver filigree are
the town and some original here it is also possible to reach pinned to the wall. There is also
features are still visible on a few the shady Foresta di Montes, a a fine statue of the saint, whose
isolated houses. On Corso forest of holm oak that stretches feast day is celebrated the
Repubblica, the church of San out to the south. second Sunday after Easter.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp177–8 and pp187–8

110-111_EW_Sardinia.indd 110 11/2/16 12:03 PM
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Date 25th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm