Page 131 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sardinia
P. 131

THE  WESTERN   C O AST      129


                                               Here, a turning to the right
                                               leads to the entrance to the
                                               archaeological site, which
                                               is fenced off. Together with
                                               the monuments at Barùmini
                                               (see pp68–9) and Torralba
                                               (see pp28–9), this nuraghic
                                               complex is one of the
                                               most important remaining
                                               from the immediate pre-
                                               Punic period.
                                                 In the middle of this vast
                                               structure is a keep thousands
       The Losa nuraghe near Abbasanta         of years old, dating from the
                                               second millennium BC, while
       q Ghilarza          w Abbasanta         the ramparts were built some
                                               centuries later. The outer
       Road map C3. * 4,700.    Road map C3. * 2,700.
       n Town Hall (0785 56 10).   n Town Hall (0785 56 16).   defensive walls were the last
       ∑ comune.ghilarza.or.it  ∑ comune.abbasanta.or.it  to be built, and date from the
                                               7th century BC.
       An unfinished Aragonese    This village, the centre of      Inside the nuraghe there
       tower stands in the centre of   which still has some old   are three roofed chambers
       Ghilarza, but the place is known   traditional houses made of    with a great many niches, which
       principally as the town in which   dark local basalt stone, revolves   were probably used for storage.
       the famous Italian political   around the parish church of   A spiral staircase leads to the
       thinker and writer Antonio   Santa Cristina, with its   upper floor, which features a
       Gramsci spent his childhood   impressive Renaissance-  terrace above.
       years. A small door on Corso   inspired architecture. Situated     All around the main structure
       Umberto leads to the Casa di   in the middle of a highly   are the foundations of a
       Gramsci, now occupied by a   developed agricultural region,   series of later buildings, dating
       research and study centre.   Abbasanta owes its impor tance  from the Bronze Age to the
       There is also an exhibition of   to its strategic position near   Middle Ages.
       historical material relating to    main artery routes, both     A small Antiquarium stands
       the Communist leader, who   ancient and modern.  about 100 m (328 ft) from
       died in prison during the Fascist     In the vicinity are two of the   the nuraghi themselves. It
       era. On the second floor is the   most important archaeo logical   houses an interesting exhibi-
       small bedroom that was   sites in the whole of Sardinia:   tion of plans and illustrations
       Gramsci’s from 1898 to 1908.  the Losa Nuraghe and the   of a number of nuraghic
                           Santa Cristina nuraghic   monu ments in this part
       Environs            complex near Paulilàtino    of Sardinia.
       A short distance from Ghilarza,   (see p141). In order to reach the
       on the road to Nuoro, is the   Losa Nuraghe, take the Carlo   T Losa Nuraghe
       beautiful church of San Pietro di   Felice road towards Cagliari until   SS Carlo Felice 123.5 km.
       Zuri, which was relocated, along   you reach kilometre marker    Tel 0785 52 302. Open 9am–1 hour
       with the village of the same   123 (indicated on a road sign).    before sunset daily. & 8 - =
       name, after the artificial lake
       Omodeo was created in 1923.  Antonio Gramsci
         The original church dates
       from 1291. The building was   Antonio Gramsci was born at Àles
       commissioned by Mariano   in 1891 to a humble family. After
       d’Arborea, and carried out by   completing his studies at Turin, he
       architect Anselmo da Como.   entered politics full-time. He was one
       The architecture is prevalently   of the co-founders of the radical
       Romanesque, with some   weekly L’Ordine Nuovo and in 1921
       interesting details which   helped to found the Italian Communist
       anticipate the transition   Party, later becoming its Secretary-
                            General. He was elected to parliament
       towards the Gothic style.
                            but was arrested by the Fascists in 1926
                            and given a 20-year prison sentence. He
       E Casa di Gramsci    did not see freedom again, dying in   The young Gramsci
       Corso Umberto 36. Tel 0785 541 64.   prison in 1937. The complete edition of his writings, Quaderni
       Open May–Sep: 10am–1pm, 4–7pm   del Carcere (Prison Notebooks) was not published until 1976.
       Mon, Wed–Sun (daily in Aug); Oct–  Lettere dal Carcere (Letters from Prison) are a moving statement
       Apr: 10am–1pm, 3:30–6:30pm Fri–Sun.   of his sufferings as a prisoner.
       ∑ casagramscighilarza.org



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