Page 143 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sardinia
P. 143

THE  WESTERN   C O AST      141


       centre consists of houses in red
       and grey stone. One of the best
       preserved is Casa Madeddu, a
       typical old “Aragonese house”
       of the early 1600s with Catalan-
       style doorways and windows.
       On the same street is the 16th
       century parish church of San
       Pietro Apostolo, in red trachyte,
       which has been almost entirely
       rebuilt. The Roman Baths lie on
       the banks of the river, with a
       fine portico and several rooms    Village of Àles at the foot of Monte Arci
       with mosaic pavements. The
       rectangular pool still contains   encloses the archaeological    f Àles
       warm water from the hot springs.  area, where there is a well   Road map C4. * 1,700. n Town
         A short distance south of   temple dedicated to the local   Hall (0783 91 131). _ first Sun in Aug:
       Fordon gianus stands the rural   mother -goddess dating from    Santa Madonna della Neve.
       church of San Lussorio,   the 1st millennium BC. The well   ∑ comune.ales.or.it
       built by Victorine       is in a good state of
       monks around AD           preservation, and a   Àles, the main village in the
       1100, over an early       broad stone stairway   Marmilla area, lies on the eastern
       Christian crypt.          leads to its vaulted   slope of Monte Arci. In the upper
                                under ground chamber.   part stands the cathedral of San
       T Roman Baths  Earrings found at the  Nearby is an enclosure   Pietro, built in 1686 by Genoan
       Via Terme. Tel 0783 60    Forum Traiani  that was probably used   architect Domenico Spotorno,
       157. Open 9:30am–1pm,    for general assemblies.   who used the ruins of the 12th -
       3–6:30pm daily. &   The sacred nature of this site   century church on this site as
                           has been maintained over the   material for his construction.
                           centuries with the construc tion     Twin bell towers with ceramic
       d Paulilàtino       of a church dedicated to Santa   domes rise above the elegant
                           Cristina. Worshippers continue   façade, while in the Baroque
       Road map C4. * 2,500. n Viale
       della Libertà 33 (0785 556 23).    to flock to the church, which    interior, the sacristy has lovely
       _ second Sun in May: Sagra di    is surrounded by muristenes,   carved furniture and a rare
       Santa Cristina.     houses intended for those    14th-century crucifix. The
                           who come here for novena    Archivio Capitolare contains
       This rural village at the edge of   on the saint’s feast day.  elegant gold jewellery.
       the Abbasanta basalt plateau is     To the right of the church,     In the same square stand
       surrounded by olive groves and   among the olive trees, another   the Palazzo Vescovile and the
       cork oak woods. The houses are   archaeological zone includes a   seminary and oratory of the
       built of dark stone and have   well-preserved nuraghe and   Madonna del Rosario.
       Aragonese doorways and small   two rectangular nuraghic-age     Àles is also the birthplace of
       wrought-iron balconies. The   stone dwellings. The best   Antonio Gramsci (1891–1937)
       same stone was used to build   preserved of these is 14 m    (see p129). The house is marked
       the church of San Teodoro    (46 ft) long and 2 m (6 ft) high.  with a plaque.
       in the 17th century. This
       Aragonese Gothic church has a   T Santa Cristina  Environs
       stained-glass rose window and a   Km 114,300, SS131 Cagliari-Sassari.   Àles is a good starting point for
       bell tower with an onion dome.   n Cooperativa Archeotour (0785    a hike to the top of Trebina
       Palazzo Atzori houses a museum   554 38). Open 8:30am–dusk.  Longa and Trebina Lada, the
       of folk culture with domestic           highest peaks on Monte Arci,
       tools and objects on display.           the remnants of an ancient
                                               crater. Along the way you are
       P Palazzo Atzori                        likely to spot pieces of obsidian,
       Via Nazionale 127. Tel 0785 554 38.     the hard black volcanic glass
       Open summer: 9:30am–1pm, 4–7pm;         which was cut into thin slices
       winter: 9:30am–1pm, 3–5:30pm.           and used to make arrow heads,
       Closed Mon. & 8 7                       spears and scrapers. The
                                               obsidian of Monte Arci was in
       Environs                                great demand, and not only
       About 4 km (3 miles) from town,         supplied the whole of Sardinia,
       a turning off state road 131 takes      but was also sold throughout
       you to the nuraghic village of   Steps leading to the temple of Santa   the Mediterranean in the
       Santa Cristina. A stone wall   Cristina at Paulilàtino  4th–3rd millennia BC.




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