Page 154 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sardinia
P. 154

152      SARDINIA  AREA  B Y  AREA


       Exploring the Maddalena Archipelago     strip of land. Further north are
                                               Porto Massimo, the inlets of
       The small Maddalena Archipelago is a favourite with sailing   Abbatoggia and Cala d’Inferno,
       fanatics, fans of underwater fishing and with people who   and the other large fortification
       appreciate tranquillity and unspoilt surroundings. Except    on the island, Forte dei Colmi.
       for the two largest islands, the archipelago is uninhabited   In the first stretch of this tour
                                               is the Museo Archeologico
       and, together with the many other small islands, make    Navale “Nino Lamboglia”, the
       perfect summer destinations for boat trips, sunbathing    maritime museum with finds
       and swimming in solitude.               from the “ship of Spargi”, an
                                               ancient Roman cargo vessel
                                               discovered in the 1950s.
                                               E Museo Archeologico
                                               Navale “Nino Lamboglia”
                                               Località Mongiardino.
                                               Open 10am–1pm Mon–Sat.
                                               Tel 0789 79 06 60/33. &
                                               Caprera
                                               Road map D1. n 0789 73 63 21.
                                               This small island has 34 km
                                               (21 miles) of coastline, and is
                                               connected to the island of
                                               Maddalena by the 600 m
                                               (1,968 ft) Passo della Moneta
                                               bridge. Walkers will enjoy the
       The Sardinia Regional Naval headquarters at La Maddalena  climb up the steps to the top of
                                               Monte Teialone (212 m, 695 ft).
       La Maddalena        inhabitants. La Maddalena is still     The island of Caprera became
       Road map D1. * 12,000. n 0789 79   the head quarters of the Sardinia   the property of Giuseppe
       02 11. g from Palau. _ 20–22 Jul:   Regional Navy.  Garibaldi in 1856 (see pp44–5).
       Santa Maria Maddalena.                  His estate is now part of the
       The town that is now the capital   } The Scenic Route  Compendio Garibaldino
       of the island was founded in   The road around the island    museum area. A visit here
       1770 and replaced a small   is about 20 km (12 miles) long   includes a fascinating tour of
       village built on the shores of    and goes through the Cala   the stables, moorings and the
       the Cala Gavetta bay. After the   Spalmatore, Stagno Torto and   Casa Bianca (white house)
       unsuccessful invasion on the   Baia Trínita bays.  where Garibaldi lived.  The
       part of the French in 1793,     On your way from La   stable still has a period steam
       British admiral Horatio Nelson   Maddalena, you will see the     engine used for threshing,
       stopped at La Maddalena in   church of the Trinità, then the   while the Casa Bianca contains
       1804 and in 1887 the entire   turn-off for Monte Guardia   mementos of Garibaldi’s
       Maddalena Archipelago was   Vecchia, on the summit of which  adventurous life, including
       turned into a naval base by the   is the Savoyard fort of San   weapons, flags, portraits, the
       Savoy rulers. On Via Amendola,   Vittorio, and lastly the island of   hero’s clothes (including his
       which runs along the seafront, a   Giardinelli, which is connected   famous red shirt) and a model
       series of 19th-century buildings   to La Maddalena by a narrow   of the Battle of Solferino.
       bears witness to the rapid
       develop ment of the town in this   Garibaldi and Caprera
       period. In Piazza Garibaldi, the
       Municipio (town hall) has on   The legendary Italian revolutionary and
       display a French bomb dating   hero Giuseppe Garibaldi escaped to the
       from France’s attempt to   island of Caprera in 1849, after the fall
       conquer Sardinia in 1793.  of the Roman Republic. He returned in
         In the evening, particularly    1855 after the death of his wife Anita
       in summer, the residents of    and decided to buy most of the island.
       the island can be found taking    The rest of the land was then given
       a leisurely stroll around Via   to him by some English friends.
       Garibaldi. Not far away is the   Garibaldi, who went on to play a
                            key role in the unification of Italy,
       church of Santa Maria Maddalena,   settled on Caprera permanently in   Giuseppe Garibaldi wearing the
       which has two candelabra and    1857, and died here in 1882.  famous red shirt
       a silver cross given by Admiral
       Nelson to the island’s
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp178–9 and p189


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