Page 254 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)
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The Drive » Find yourself   recreated medieval herb   The Drive » Get on the D13,
        in a gentle world of plane-tree   gardens, fragrant with   then follow the signs to the
        arcades, wildflowers and, yes,   native lavender, mints and  D5 for the drive to Manosque
        lavender. Around 4km south on   mugworts. The bookshop   (roughly 30 minutes in total).
        the D4100 you’ll come to our   is inviting, too.
        next stop, just before the pretty   The walled town of
        town of Mane.
                            Mane is lovely for stroll-  9 Manosque
                            ing. Or for a mysterious,   Manosque has two lovely
         TRIP HIGHLIGHT     potentially curative   fountains and a historic
        8 Prieuré de        detour, visit remote   cobblestoned core, but
        Salagon             Église de Cháteauneuf,   traffic and suburban
                            where a hermit church
                                               nothingness make visit-
        This beautiful 13th-century   sister concocts natural   ing a nuisance. But just
         priory, located on the   remedies and makes   southeast is the home of
        outskirts of Mane, is home   jam. Head 800m south of   l’Occitane, the company
        to a garden museum, the   Mane to the Hôtel Mas du  that turned traditional
        Jardins Salagon (www.  Pont Roman, then turn   lavender-, almond- and
        musee-de-salagon.com; adult/  right and either park and   olive oil–based Provençal
        child/family €8/6/22; h10am-  walk, or drive the bumpy   skincare into a global
        8pm Jun-Aug, to 7pm May & Sep,   final 3km. Be warned: the  phenomenon. Factory
        to 6pm Oct–mid-Dec & Feb-Apr;   good sister doesn’t always  tours can be booked
        c). This is ethno-botany   reveal herself. Just in   through the tourist
        at its most poetic and   case, bring a picnic and   office; the shop offers a
        sensual: wander through   consider it an adventure.  flat 10% discount, and the
                                               odd bargain.
                                               The Drive » Leave the
                                               freeways and ring roads behind
                 DETOUR:                       and cross the Durance River
     PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 22 LAvENDER ROUTE
                 THE LUBERON                   towards the quieter D6 (from
                                               where it will take around 20
                                               minutes to reach the town of
          Start: 8 Prieuré de Salagon          Valensole); check the rear-view
          The Luberon’s other, southern, half is equally as   mirrors for mountain views.
          florally blessed. Lavender carpets the Plateau de
          Claparèdes between Buoux (west), Sivergues
          (south), Auribeau (east) and Saignon (north). Cycle,   a Plateau de
          walk or motor through the lavender fields and along   valensole
          the northern slopes of Mourre Nègre (1125m) – the   Things get very relaxed
          Luberon’s highest point, accessible from Cucuron.   once you hit the D6,
          The D113 climbs to idyllic lavender distillery Les   and the road begins
          Agnels (%04 90 74 34 60; www.lesagnels.com; rte de   a gentle climb. This
          Buoux, btwn Buoux & Apt; adult/child €6/free; h10am-7pm   dreamily quiet plateau
          Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar), which distils lavender,   has Provence’s greatest
          cypress and rosemary. The small on-site spa has a   concentration of lavender
          lavender-scented swimming pool. Stay at Chambre
          avec Vue (%04 90 04 85 01; www.chambreavecvue.com;   farms, and a checker-
          rue de la Bourgade; r €90-110; hclosed Dec-Feb) in tiny,   board of waving wheat
          hip Saignon, which perches on high rocky flanks, its   and lavender rows stretch
          narrow streets crowning a hill ringed with craggy   to the horizon, or at least
          scrub and petite lavender plots, with incredible vistas   until Riez. Fine picnic
          across the Luberon to Mont Ventoux.  spots and photo ops are
                                               not hard to find.

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