Page 255 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Eating & Sleeping

earthy, market-driven cooking, incorporating
St-Saturnin-lès-Apt 3 fresh-from-the-farm ingredients in simple bistro
fare, like honey-braised rabbit or grilled lamb
5 La Coquillade French €€€ with tomato and basil. The best idea is usually
(%04 90 74 71 71; www.coquillade.fr; Le just to go for whatever is on the blackboard.
Perrotet, Gargas; menus lunch €39, dinner €72- Reservations recommended.
90, d €325-390; h12.30-1.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm 5 Les Petites Tables Provencal €€
mid-Apr–mid-Oct) Overnighting at this luxurious
hilltop estate won’t suit everyone’s budget, but (%04 86 68 53 14; lespetitestables@gmail.
everyone should try to fork out for the great- com; lunch mains €10-16; hnoon-3pm Tue-Sat)
value Bistrot lunch menu. Michelin-starred and This Provençal restaurant at the Ecomusée
run by renowned chef Christophe Renaud, it’ll l’Olivier (%04 92 72 66 91; www.ecomusee-
be one of the most memorable meals you’ll olivier.com) near Volx is only open for lunch. It
have in the Luberon. It’s a 13km drive west from makes full use of its own olive oils, which are
St-Saturnin, near the village of Lioux; there are used to make homemade salad dressings and
plenty of signs, but phone ahead to confirm tomato dishes.
directions. 4 Relais d’Elle B&B € PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 22 LAvENDER ROUTE
4 Le Mas Perréal B&B €€ (%04 92 75 06 87, 06 75 42 33 72; http://
(%04 90 75 46 31; www.masperreal.com; relaisdelle.com; rte de la Brillane, Niozelles;
Quartier la Fortune; d €130-140, self-catering s/d/tr/q from €60/75/90/115; Ws) What a
studio €100-150; Ws) Surrounded by stunner of a B&B this is, 8km from Forcalquier
vineyards, lavender fields and cherry orchards, in a delightful ivy-covered farmhouse dating
on a vast 7-hectare property outside St-Saturnin- from 1802, surrounded by tended gardens,
lès-Apt, this farmhouse B&B offers a choice of bucolic countryside and a grand pool. The
cosy rooms or self-catering studios, both filled sweet, feminine rooms all have views – we liked
with country antiques and Provençal fabrics. Collines for its cosiness and Pierres for its
There’s a heavenly pool and big garden with atmosphere. The owners are passionate about
mountain views. Elisabeth, a long-time French horses. They also offer a delicious dinner by
teacher, offers cooking and French lessons. It’s reservation.
2km southwest of town along the D2. 4 Couvent des Minimes Hotel €€€
(%04 92 74 77 77; www.couventdesminimes-
hotelspa.com; chemin des Jeux de Maï, Mane; r
Forcalquier 7 from €275; aWs) A real budget-buster, but
5 Restaurant Le 9 Provencal €€ boutique in every sense of the word. Housed in
(%04 92 75 03 29; www.le9-forcalquier.fr; av a converted convent, it pulls out all the luxury
stops: beautiful rooms, an indulgent spa and a
Jean Giono; menus €22-28; hnoon-2.30pm & superb restaurant, all wrapped up in wonderful
7.30-10pm Wed-Mon) High in Forcalquier, behind medieval architecture. Low-season and last-
the Citadel with a panoramic terrace, Le 9 (say minute deals often bring prices down a notch.
luh-nuf) is the town’s most reliable address for
It’s in the village of Mane on the D4100.

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