Page 261 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

%04 97 13 42 01; www.mamac- A Thief, when Grace Kelly
TRIP HIGHLIGHT nice.org; place Yves Klein; and Cary Grant cruised
4 Nice h10am-6pm Tue-Sun). the hills in a convertible,
With its mix of real-city 54 p264, p409 enjoying sparkling banter
and searing blue Mediter-
grit, old-world opulence The Drive »Head out of the ranean views? Well you’re
and year-round sunshine, city through Riquier on the about to tackle the very
Nice is the undisputed D2564. You don’t want the same drive – so don your
capital of the Côte d’Azur. motorway – you want to hit bd shades, roll down the win-
Sure, the traffic’s hor- Bischoffsheim, which becomes dows and hit the asphalt.
rendous and the beach is bd de l’Observatoire as it climbs It’s a roller coaster of
made entirely of pebbles up to the summit of Mont Gros. a road, veering through
(not a patch of sand in Take it all in, stop for the pan- hairpins and switchbacks
sight!), but that doesn’t city views, then get ready to as it heads into the hills
detract from its charms. really drive. The next 12km are above Nice. There are
thrilling, twisting past the Parc
It’s a great base, with Naturel Régional de la Grande countless picnic spots
loads of hotels and res- Corniche. Pull over and make and photo opportunities
taurants, and character use of the picnic tables if you along the way, including
in every nook and cranny. wish, or take a break for a hilly the Col d’Èze, the road’s
Start with a morning hike, then continue to La Turbie. PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 23 RIVIERA CROSSING
stroll through the huge highest point at 512m.
Further on you’ll pass
food and flower markets TRIP HIGHLIGHT the monumental Roman
on cours Saleya, then landmark known as the
delve into the wind- 5 La Grande Trophée des Alpes (%04
ing alleyways of the Corniche 93 41 20 84; http://la-turbie.
old town, Vieux Nice, Remember that sexy scene monuments-nationaux.fr; 18 av
with many backstreet from Hitchcock’s To Catch Albert Ier, La Turbie; adult/child
restaurants where you
can try local speciali-
ties such as pissaladière
(onion tart topped with DETOUR:
olives and anchovies)
and socca (chickpea-flour BIOT
pancake). Stop for an ice Start: 2 Antibes & Juan-les-Pins
cream at famous Fenoc-
chio (p264) – flavours This 15th-century hilltop village was once an
include tomato, lavender, important pottery-manufacturing centre. The advent
olive and fig – then spend of metal containers brought an end to this, but Biot
the afternoon sunbathing is still active in handicraft production, especially
on the beaches along the glassmaking. At the foot of the village, the Verrerie
seafront Promenade des de Biot (%04 93 65 03 00; www.verreriebiot.com; chemin
des Combes; museum adult/child €3/1.50; h9.30am-7.30pm
Anglais before catching
an epic sunset. Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1pm & 2.30-7.30pm Sun Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-
Mar) produces bubbled glass by rolling molten glass
If you have the time,
the city has some great into baking soda; bubbles from the chemical reaction
are then trapped by a second layer of glass. You can
museums too – you’ll need watch skilled glass-blowers at work and browse the
at least an afternoon to adjacent art galleries and shop. There are also guided
explore all of the modern
masterpieces at the Musée tours (€6), during which you get the chance to try
your hand at a spot of glass-blowing – and learn why
d’Art Moderne et d’Art it’s probably best left to the professionals.
Contemporain (MAMAC;
259