Page 260 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)
P. 260

reach the town, cross the river.   came by its stellar art
                            You’ll pass through a tunnel into   collection).
                            the outskirts of Cagnes-sur-Mer;   It’s now one of the
                            now start following signs to   Riviera’s most exclusive
                            St-Paul.
                                               locations, a haven for
                                               artists, film stars and
        the atmospheric Marché   TRIP HIGHLIGHT  celebrities, not to men-
        Provençal will still be                tion hordes of sightseers,
        in full swing, and then   3 St-Paul de Vence  many of whom are here
        browse the nearby Musée  Once upon a time, hilltop   to marvel at the incred-
        Picasso (%04 92 90 54   St-Paul de Vence was   ible art collection at the
        20; www.antibes-juanlespins.  just another village   Fondation Maeght (%04
        com/culture/musee-picasso;   like countless others in   93 32 81 63; www.fondation-
        Château Grimaldi, 4 rue des   Provence. But then the   maeght.com; 623 chemin des
        Cordiers; adult/concession   artists moved in: paint-  Gardettes; adult/child €15/10;
        €6/3; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun   ers such as Marc Chagall   h10am-7pm Jul-Sep, to 6pm
        mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-noon   and Pablo Picasso sought   Oct-Jun). Created in 1964
        & 2-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–mid-  solitude here, painted the   by collectors Aimé and
        Jun) to see a few of the   local scenery and traded   Merguerite Maeght, it
        artist’s Antibes-themed   canvases for room and   boasts works by all the
        works.              board (this is how the   big 20th-century names –
                            Colombe d’Or (%04 93 32
        54 p264             80 02; www.la-colombe-dor   Miró sculptures, Chagall
        The Drive »Brave the traffic   .com; place de Gaulle; d   mosaics, Braque windows
                                               and canvases by Picasso,
        on the D6007 and avoid signs to   €250-430; hrestaurant   Matisse and others.
        turn onto the A8 motorway: it’s   noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm   While you’re here, it’s
        the D2 you want, so follow signs   late Dec-Oct; aWs) hotel
        for Villeneuve-Loubet. When you        worth taking a detour
                                               northwards to Vence,
                                               where the marvellous
     PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 23 RIVIERA CROSSING
                                               Chapelle du Rosaire
                 DETOUR:                       (Rosary Chapel; %04 93 58
                 CORNICHE DE                   03 26; 466 av Henri Matisse;
                 L’ESTÉREL                     adult/child €6/3; h2-5.30pm
                                               Mon, Wed & Sat, 10-11.30am
          Start: 1 Cannes                      & 2-5.30pm Tue & Thu, closed
          West of Cannes, the winding coast road known as   mid-Nov–early Dec) was
          the Corniche de l’Estérel (sometimes known as the   designed by an ailing
          Corniche d’Or, the Golden Road) is well worth a side   Henri Matisse. He had a
          trip if you can spare the time. It’s also a natural link   hand in everything here,
          with our Var Delights itinerary (p267). Opened in 1903   from the stained-glass
          by the Touring Club de France, this twisting coast road   windows to the altar and
          is as much about driving pleasure as getting from A   candlesticks.
          to B; it runs for 30 unforgettable coastal kilometres   The Drive »Return the way
          all the way to St-Raphael. En route you’ll pass seaside   you came, only this time follow
          villages, secluded coves (sandy, pebbled, nudist, cove-  the blue signs onto the A8
          like, you name it) and the rocky red hills of the Massif   motorway to Nice. Take exit 50
          de l’Estérel, dotted with gnarly oaks, juniper and wild   for Promenade des Anglais,
          thyme. Wherever you go, the blue Mediterranean   which will take you all 18km
          shimmers alongside, tempting you to stop for just one   along the Baie des Anges. The
          more swim. It’s too much to resist.  views are great, but you’ll hit
                                               nightmare traffic at rush hour.

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