Page 271 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)
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spangly Mediterranean-  which once protected   (www.calanques-parcnational.
          themed museum, Musée   the city’s harbour from   fr), these craggy inlets
          des Civilisations de   attack. Afterwards, head   run for around 20km all
          l’Europe et de la Méditer-  uphill to the city’s oldest   the way to the seaside
          ranée (MuCEM, Museum of   quarter, Le Panier (from   village of Cassis. They’ve
          European & Mediterranean   the French for basket),   been protected since
          Civilisations; %04 84 35 13 13;   criss-crossed by graffiti-  1975, and were designat-
          www.mucem.org; 7 Promenade   clad alleyways, quirky   ed as a national park in
          Robert Laffont; adult/family/  shops and neighbour-  2014. They’re a favourite
          child incl exhibitions €9.50/14/  hood cafes. Reward your-  place for Marseillais to
          free, 1st Sun of month free;   self with a black vanilla   hike and picnic; Mar-
          h10am-8pm Wed-Mon Jul   ice cream from Vanille   seille’s tourist office runs
          & Aug, 11am-7pm Wed-Mon   Noire (%07 77 33 68 19; 13   regular guided hikes,
          Sep, Oct, May & Jun, 11am-  rue Caisserie; ice cream €2;   although trails are closed
          6pm Wed-Mon Nov-Apr; c;   h12.30-6.45pm), then head  in July and August due to
          mVieux Port or Joliette),   off for dinner at one of   fire risk.
          which helped kickstart   the city’s excellent bistros   Of the many calanques
          the city’s revival in   around rue Sainte.  along the coastline,
          2013. It’s attached to the            the most accessible are   PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 24 VAR DELIGHTS
          formidable Fort St-Jean,   54 p274    Calanque de Sormiou and
                             The Drive »To get to the   Calanque de Morgiou,
                             Calanques, follow av du Prado   while remote inlets such
                             south from the Vieux Port; it   Calanque d’En Vau and
                             winds up into the hills behind   Calanque de Port-Miou
                             the city and becomes the D559,   take dedication and time
                             the main road through the   to reach – either on foot
                             national park. There are loads of
                ALPES-       places to stop, but you’ll have to   or by kayak. The roads
              MARITIMES                         into each calanque are
                             do some walking if you want to
                             see any coves. Things get very   usually closed to drivers,
                             hot and sweaty in summer, so   but a sneaky workaround
                 # Grasse    set out early.     is to make a booking at
                 \
                                                one of the cove restau-
                           ]
                    23
          Lac de St-  F G  # TRIP HIGHLIGHT     rants: good options are
          Cassien                               Le Château (%04 91 25 08
                 Cannes  #   2 The Calanques
                      ]
                   Golfe de  East of Marseille, a range   69; http://lechateausormiou.
           Massif de l'Estérel  of bone-white, parched   €19-25; hnoon-2.30pm &
                   Napoule
                                                fr; Calanque de Sormiou; mains
                             cliffs towers above glit-
                                                7.30-9.30pm Apr-Sep) in
     Fréjus  # \ # Corniche de l'Estérel  tering turquoise coves.   Sormiou and Nautic Bar
         #
          8
     St-Raphaël \ #          Known as the Calanques   (%04 91 40 06 37; Calanque
        # Les Issambres
        \
   St-Maxime                      LINK
    \ #  Golfe de  Côte d'Azur    YOUR
      St-Tropez
    # #                           TRIP
    \ # 7
   St-Tropez
                           i   Foothills of the   n  Riviera Crossing
           Mediterranean       Alps
              Sea                                 Cut out the gorges
                           From Haute-Provence on   and stick to the coast for
                           into the wilds of the Vercors.   Cannes.
   # e  0 0     10 miles
                  20 km
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