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Eating & Sleeping


                                      Dimitri Droisneau, this double Michelin-starred
        Marseille 1                   restaurant has become one of the destination
                                      addresses on the Riviera, renowned for its
        5 Les Buffets du              creative seafood and refined sea-view setting.
        Vieux Port            French €  Top-drawer ingredients like Aubrac beef, sea
        (%04 13 20 11 32; www.clubhousevieuxport.  urchins, turbot and blue lobster form the core
        com; 158 quai du Port; adult/child menu €23/13;   of the menu. There’s a cheaper bistro on the
        hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm; c; mVieux   1st floor that’s only open for lunch on weekdays
        Port) What a great idea – a high-class, on-trend   (menus €37 to €45).
        self-service canteen, with a vast array of starters,
        mains, salads and desserts laid out like a banquet
        for diners to help themselves to. Premium cold   Hyères 4
        cuts, fresh seafood, bouillabaisse, mussels, fish   5 Joy   Provencal €€
        soup – it’s all here and more. Portside tables go
        fast, but there’s plenty of room inside.  (%04 94 20 84 98; www.restaurant-joy.com;
                                      24 rue de Limans; lunch/dinner menus from
        4 Hôtel Edmond                €22.50/45; hnoon-1.30pm & 7-9.30pm
        Rostand          Design Hotel €€  Tue-Sat, noon-1.30pm Sun) In the old town, this
        (%04 91 37 74 95; www.hoteledmondrostand.  intimate bistro is indeed a culinary joy. Fresh,
        com; 31 rue Dragon; d €99, tr €114; aiW;   seasonal menus change constantly and could
        mEstrangin-Préfecture) Ignore the grubby   include anything from seafood-stuffed ravioli to
        outside shutters of this excellent-value Logis   cinnamon-spiced foie gras.
        de France hotel in the Quartier des Antiquaires.   4 Hôtel Bor   Boutique Hotel €€€
        Inside, decor is a hip mix of contemporary
        design and vintage, with a great sofa area   (%04 94 58 02 73; www.hotel-bor.com; 3 allée
     PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 24 VAR DELIGHTS
        for lounging and 16 rooms dressed in crisp   Émile Gérard, Hyères Beach; d from €150; hMar-
        white and soothing natural hues. Some rooms   Oct; aiWs) Right beside the main beach,
        overlook a tiny private garden, others the   this Scandi-tinged hotel is a stylish place to
        Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde.  stay, with its cedar-clad exterior, sun-loungers,
                                      potted plants and seafront deck. Rooms are
        4 Mama Shelter   Design Hotel €€  modern and minimal with gloss-wood floors,
        (%01 43 48 48 48; www.mamashelter.com; 64 rue   monochrome photos and steel-grey walls.
        de la Loubière; d €79-129; aW; mNotre Dame
        du Mont-Cours Julien) This funky mini-chain of
        design-forward hotels recently opened its outpost  St-Tropez 7
        in Marseille, and if you’re a cool kid in search of   Cafe €
        sexy sleeps, this is the address for you. It’s all   5 La Tarte Tropézienne
        about the details here – Philippe Starck furniture,   (%04 94 97 04 69; www.latartetropezienne.
        sleek white-and-chrome colour schemes, in-room   fr; place des Lices; mains €13-15, cakes €3-5;
        iMacs. Smaller rooms are oddly shaped, though,   h6.30am-7.30pm & noon-3pm) This newly
        and it’s a walk from the old port.  renovated cafe-bakery is the creator of the
                                      eponymous sugar-crusted, orange-perfumed
                                      cake. There are smaller branches on rue
        Cassis 3                      Clémenceau (%04 94 97 71 42; www.
                                      latartetropezienne.fr; 36 rue Clémenceau;
        5 La Villa Madie   Gastronomy €€€  mains €13-15, cakes €3-5; h7am-7pm) and
        (%04 96 18 00 00; www.lavillamadie.com; av   near the new port (%04 94 97 19 77; www.
        de Revestel-anse de Corton; menus €75-145,   latartetropezienne.fr; 9 bd Louis Blanc; mains
        mains €54-72; hnoon-1.15pm Wed-Sun &   €13-15, cakes €3-5; h6.30am-7.30pm), plus
        7-9.15pm Wed-Sat) Overseen by Marielle and   various other towns around the Côte d’Azur.

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