Page 285 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

rip for a hot night out. dramatically into its hnoon-3pm & 7-9.30pm
Cafes and bars cluster heart than Zonza, a Apr-Oct) on the pass. If you
place de la République hamlet overshadowed by want to stay overnight,
and along the seafront. the iconic Aiguilles de this Corsican inn has
On the town’s southern Bavella (Bavella Needles), dorm beds (per person in­
outskirts, Via Notte (%04 granite pinnacles like cluding half­board €40).
95 72 02 12; www.vianotte.com; shark’s teeth that jab the The Drive » Steady your
rte de Porra; h8pm-5am daily skyline at an altitude of motoring nerves for relentless
Jun-Sep), with 5000­odd more than 1600m. Hiking hairpins on the perilously steep
revellers and superstar is the thing to do in this descent along the D268 from
DJs most summer nights, wild neck of the woods. the Col de Bavella to the Col de
is the hottest club in Cor­ Larone, 13km northeast, and
sica and one of the most 4 p285 onwards north through the hills
famous in the Med. The Drive » Allow up to 20 to Solenzara on the coast. Allow
minutes for the go-slow, bend- at least an hour for the entire
5 p285 laced D268 that climbs slowly 30km trip.
The Drive » Leave Porto- and scenically up from Zonza
Vecchio by the winding D368 to the mountain pass at 1218m, 9 Solenzara
and follow it through the heavily 9km north.
wooded Forêt de l’Ospédale – The town itself is not
excellent walks and picnic TRIP HIGHLIGHT particularly worthy of
spots – to the rural hamlet of a postcard home. What PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 25 SOUTHERN SEDUCTION EN CORSE
L’Ospédale (1000m), 18km 8 Col de Bavella gives this seaside resort
northeast. Continue on the No number of hairpins or on Corsica’s eastern
same road through more forest sheer drops can prepare coast natural appeal is
and loads more exhausting
wiggles to Zonza, 20km north you for the spectacular its handsome spread of
again. It’ll take a good hour for drama that awaits you sandy beaches and the
the entire journey. atop the Bavella Pass journey to it – one of the
(1218m), the perfect perch most stunning (and nail­
for marvelling close­up at biting) drives on Corsica.
7 Zonza the Aiguilles de Bavella. So steep and narrow is
The chances are you’ve Depending on the time the road in places that
had a temporary surfeit of day and weather, these it’s not even single lane,
of superb seascapes, so gargantuan granite while hazy views of the
take a couple of days out spikes glimmer red, gold, tantalising Mediterrane­
to explore the Alta Rocca crimson, ginger or dark an far below pose an un­
wilderness, a world away broody burgundy. nerving distraction. Once
from the bling and glitz Short and long hikes through the thick pine
of the coast. At the south are a dime a dozen, and forest of the Forêt de
of the long spine that when the drinking in Bavella, the road drops
traverses Corsica, the of outdoor action and across the Col de Larone
area is a bewildering intoxicating alpine views (608m) to eventually
combination of dense, is done, there is unforget­ meet the banks of the
mixed evergreen–decidu­ table feasting on roasted River Solenzara. When
ous forests and granite baby goat and wild pig the extreme driving
villages strung over stew at the Auberge du gets too much, pull over
rocky ledges. Col de Bavella (%04 95 72 and dip your toes in the
No mountain vil­ 09 87; www.auberge-bavella. crystal­clear river water –
lage plunges you more com; Col de Bavella, D268; there are swimming and
mains €11-23, menu €24; picnic spots aplenty.

283