Page 290 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)
P. 290

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
                   Corsican Coast
          26       Cruiser                     2 Algajola
                                               This gloriously old-
                                               fashioned, bucket-and-
                                               spade address makes a
                                               great base. Its golden-
         Keep both hands firmly on the wheel during this   sand beach is one of
         high-drama ride along Corsica’s hairpin-laced   Corsica’s longest and
                                               loveliest, and budget
         west coast. Dangerously distracting views out   accommodation options
         the window flit from glittering bay and bijou   are superb. If your idea of
                                               luxury is drifting off to
         beach to sawtooth peak, blazing-red rock and   the orchestra of crashing
         maquis-cloaked mountain; while the road –   waves, and frolicking on
                                               the sand in pyjamas fresh
         never far from the dazzling big blue – gives a   out of bed at dawn, there
         whole new spin to the concept ‘Go Slow’: you   is no finer place to stay.
                                                 Next morning, jump
         won’t average much more than 35km/h for the   aboard the trinighellu
         duration of the trip.                 (trembler), aka the
                                               Tramway de la Balagne, a
                                               dinky little seaside train
                                               that trundles along sand-
                                               covered tracks between
                            8.30pm Oct-May) and watch   Île Rousse and Calvi,
        1 Île Rousse        old men play boules.  stopping on request only
                              Later, take a sunset
        Sun-worshippers,    stroll past a Genoese   at hidden coves and bijou
        celebrities and holiday-  watchtower and light-  beaches en route.
        ing yachties create buzz               54 p294
        in this busy beach town   house to the russet-
                            coloured rock of Île de
        straddling a long, sandy   la Pietra, from which   The Drive » Continue towards
        curve of land backed by   the town, founded by   Calvi on the coastal T30 and in
        mountains and herb-  Pascal Paoli in 1758, gets   the centre of Lumio, 6km south
                                               of Algajola, turn right following
        scented maquis.     its colourful name. Sea   signs for ‘Plage de l’Arinella’.
          Begin the day on Île                 Twist 2.6km downhill past leafy
        Rousse’s central tree-  kayaking (%04 95 60 22   walled-garden residences
        shaded square, place   55; www.cnir.org; rte du Port;   secondaires to the turquoise
        Paoli, overlooked by the   h9am-6pm Jul & Aug, by   water lapping onto Plage de
                            arrangement Sep-Jun) around
        21 classical columns of                l’Arinella.
        the Greek Temple–styled   the promontory and its is-
                            lets is an outdoor delight.
        food market, built                     TRIP HIGHLIGHT
        around 1850. Get lost in   54 p294
        the rabbit warren of old-              3 Plage de
        town alleys around the   The Drive » From the   l’Arinella
                            roundabout at the western end
        square, and at noon sip a   of town, pick up the T30 towards   If there is one crescent of
        pre-lunch aperitif on the   Calvi; buy fresh fruit for the   sand in Corsica you must
        terrace of venerable Café   journey from the open-air stall   not miss, it’s this serene,
        des Platanes (place Paoli;   signposted ‘Marche Plein Air’ on   rock-clad cove with one
        h6am-2am Jun-Sep, 7am-  the roundabout.  of Corsica’s finest beach
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