Page 295 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

by crimson peaks. Split iconic, awe-inspiring culture, stroll the marina
by a promontory, the sights. And as you sway and trendy beach-clad
village itself is topped around switchback rte des Sanguinaires
by a restored Genoese after switchback along area, and congratulate
tower (€2.50; h9am-6pm the rock-riddled 12km yourself on arriving in
mid-Apr–mid-Oct) built stretch of the D81 south the city – several hun-
in the 16th century to of Porto towards the dred hairpin bends later
protect the gulf from village of Piana, one – in one piece!
Barbary incursions. mesmerising vista piggy Napoléon Bonaparte
Scale the russet-coloured backs another. was born here in 1769,
rocks up to the square For the full techni- and the city is dotted
tower, take in the tiny colour experience of with sites relating to the
local-history exhibition this natural ensemble diminutive dictator. The
inside, then stroll to the of gargantuan propor- Salon Napoléonien (%04
bustling marina where tion, park up and savour 95 51 52 62; www.musee-fesch.
a footbridge crosses the Les Calanques on foot. com; Hôtel de Ville, av Antoine
estuary to a eucalyptus Several trails wind Sérafini; adult/child €2.50/
grove and pebble beach. their way around these free; h9-11.45am & 2-5.45pm
April to October, boats dramatic rock formations Mon-Fri mid-Jun–mid-Sep, to
sail from the marina to unwittingly shaped like 4.45pm rest of year) displays
the shimmering seas dogs’ heads, dinosaurs Napoléonic medals, por- PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 26 CORSICAN COAST CRuISER
around the magnifi- and all sorts; trails start traits, busts and a fres-
cent, Unesco-protected near Pont de Mezzanu, coed ceiling of Napoléon
marine reservation of a road bridge on the D81 and entourage; and his
the Réserve Naturelle de about 3km north of Piana. childhood home is now
Scandola. Afterwards, splurge on the Maison Bonaparte
lunch at Corsica’s most (%04 95 21 43 89; www.
54 p294 mythical hotel, Les musees-nationaux-
The Drive » Cruise 12km Roches Rouges (%04 95 napoleoniens.org; rue
south along the same coastal 27 81 81; www.lesrochesrouges. St-Charles; adult/child €7/
D81 towards the village of Piana. com; D81; s €130, d €125-145; free; h10.30am-12.30pm &
When you see red you know hApr-Oct; aW). 1.15-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to
you’ve hit the next stop. 4.30pm Oct-Mar).
The Drive » Driving drama
done with, it is a relatively easy The Oscar for most
8 Les Calanques de 70km drive south along the fascinating museum
goes to Ajaccio’s fine arts
Piana D81 to the Corsican capital of museum, established by
Ajaccio.
No amount of hyperbole Napoléon’s uncle, inside
can capture the aston- TRIP HIGHLIGHT Palais Fesch (%04 95 26
ishing beauty of these 26 26; www.musee-fesch.com;
sculpted cliffs teetering 9 Ajaccio 50-52 rue du Cardinal Fesch;
above the Golfe de Porto. Corsica’s capital is all adult/child €8/5; h10.30am-
Rearing up from the sea class – and seduction. 6pm Mon, Wed & Sat, noon-
in staggering scarlet pil- Commanding a lovely 6pm Thu, Fri & Sun May-Sep,
lars, teetering columns, sweep of the bay, the to 5pm Oct-Apr). France’s
towers and irregularly city breathes confidence largest collection of Ital-
shaped boulders of pink, and has a real whiff of ian paintings outside the
ochre and ginger, Les the Côte d’Azur. Mosey Louvre hangs here.
Calanques flames red around the centre with
in the sunlight and is its mellow-toned build- 54 p284, p295
among Corsica’s most ings and vibrant cafe

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