Page 323 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)
P. 323

These days Carcas-  out for a white sign with a blue   hours Sep–mid-Nov & mid-
          sonne is one of the   castle pointing to ‘Aguilar’. Drive   Feb–May), which squats on
          Languedoc’s biggest   along this minor track to the   a low hill near the village
          tourist draws, which   car park.      of Tuchan. It’s the small-
          means its cobbled streets             est of the castles, and it
          can feel uncomfortably                is crumbling fast –
          crowded in summer.   2 Château        but you can still make
          Try to time your visit   d’Aguilar    out the six corner turrets
          for early or late in the   When the Albigensian   as well as the hexagonal
          day when it’s at its most   Crusade forced the Ca-  outer wall.
          peaceful.          thars into the mountains   The Drive » Take the D611
                             between France and the   through Tuchan, emerging
          54 p325
                             province of Aragon, they   from the narrow streets onto
          The Drive » From   sought refuge in a line of   dry, vine-covered slopes. You’ll
          Carcassonne, take the A61 east   frontier strongholds. The   reach a roundabout; turn
          for 36km towards Narbonne.   first of these sites is the   left onto the D14, signed to
          Turn off at exit 25, signed to   Château d’Aguilar (%04   Padern and Cucugnan. (After
          Lezignan-Corbières, and follow        15km, take note of the turn-off
          the D611 across the sunbaked   68 45 51 00; www.tuchan.  to the Château de Quéribus
          countryside for 46km. Just   fr; Tuchan; adult/child €4/2;   on the D123 as you bypass   PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 29 THE CATHAR TRAIL
          before you reach Tuchan, look   h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, shorter   Cucugnan; you’ll be returning
                                                here following your next stop.)
                                                Continue 9km northwest
                                                towards Duilhac-sous-
                                                Peyrepertuse.
                Homps  # \


                        Lézignan-
                       # Corbières
                       \
         / ·          0 ¸          Narbonne  # \     LINK
                      D611
         A61
                                                     YOUR
                 Orbieu                              TRIP
    AUDE                                          Cheat’s
             # \ Lagrasse                     u   Compostela
                          0 ¸      / ·
                                    A9
       # \ Mayronnes      D611                Make a longish detour off
                                              our version of the Chemin
                                   Sigean  \ #  de St-Jacques by driving
              # \ Villerouge-
               Termenès                       southeast of Moissac for
                            # \
                            Durban-  La Palme  165km to Carcassonne, with
   Mouthoumet               Corbières   # \   an optional stop in Toulouse
       # \
                                               en route.
              Duilhac-sous-
              Peyrepertuse                        The Pyrenees
    Châtteau de  Tuchan # Château             v
                    # \#
                      2
    Peyrepertuse       d'Aguilar                  Foix sits on the
               D14
       # # \   / ·                            eastern edge of the
        3
       #
            # \
      Cucugnan # Château  # Tautavel          Pyrenees, so our Pyrenean
                         \
             4
             #
               de Quéribus
     # 0¸  # Maury                            tour makes a natural next
       D117
                                              stage – although you’ll have
     \
                                 A9
     St-Paul de  \  Verdouble  Cases-  / ·    to do it in reverse.
     Fernouillet       de-Pène
                   # \   # \   # \ Rivesaltes
      # \ Ansignan  Estage    # \
               PYRÉNÉES-  Peyrestortes  Canet-en-
               ORIENTALES           Roussillon
       # \ Trévillach                                              321
                          Perpignan  # ]  # \
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