Page 326 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

in 1242, that the Cathar
TOP TIP: movement suffered its
PASSEPORT DES SITES heaviest defeat; attacked
DU PAYS CATHARE by a force of 10,000 royal
troops, the castle fell
The Passeport des Sites du Pays Cathare (www. after a gruelling nine-
payscathare.org/passeport-des-sites; €2) gives a €1 month siege, and 220 of
reduction off 21 local sites, including medieval the defenders were burnt
abbeys at St-Hilaire, Lagrasse and Villelongue. Pick it alive when they refused
up at tourist offices throughout the region.
to renounce their faith.
Montségur has also
been cited as a possible
near a white barn. It is 1km troubadours – including
further up a steep track. a flautist, guitarist, bag- location for the Holy
piper, tambourine man Grail, which was suppos-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT and hurdy-gurdy player. edly smuggled out of the
castle in the days before
6 Château de The Drive » Take the D117 the final battle.
Puivert west of Puivert for 13km to The original castle was
Bélesta. As you drive through
Built during the late 12th town, spot signs to ‘Fougax razed to rubble after the
century, the Château et B/Querigut/Château siege, and the present-
day ruins largely date
de Puivert (%04 68 20 81 de Montségur’. The village from the 17th century.
52; www.chateau-de-puivert. is another 14km further,
com; Puivert; adult/child spectacularly perched above The Drive » Continue on the
the forested slopes; follow the
€5/3; h9am-7pm Easter– winding road past the village D117, turning onto the busy N20
mid-Nov, 10am-5pm Sun-Fri until you see the castle’s to Foix, 32km northwest.
mid-Dec–Easter) belonged roadside car park.
to the aristocratic Con-
gost family, who were TRIP HIGHLIGHT 8 Foix
PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 29 THE CATHAR TRAIL
high-profile members of Complete your trip
the Cathar movement. 7 Château de through Cathar country
It was besieged in 1210 Montségur with a visit to the
by Thomas Pons de For the full Monty Château de Foix (%05
Bruyères-le-Chatel, who Python medieval vibe – 61 05 10 10; adult/child
subsequently took control not to mention a good €5.60/3.80; h19am-6pm in
of the castle and oversaw workout (bring your summer, shorter hours rest of
its redevelopment. own water!) – tackle the year), nestled among the
Camped on a 605m- steep 1207m climb to foothills of the Pyrenees.
high promontory, Puivert the ruins of the Château It’s in a more complete
still boasts much of its de Montségur (www. state of repair than many
medieval footprint. Five montsegur.fr; adult/child Jul & of the Cathar fortresses
of the eight corner towers Aug €6.50/3.50, other times you’ve seen, and gives
remain, and the central €5.50/3; h9am-7pm Jul & you some idea of how
keep has four vaulted Aug, 10am-6pm Apr-Jun & Sep, they may have looked in
rooms including the Salle 10am-5pm Mar & Oct, 11am- their medieval heyday.
des Musiciens, decorated 4pm Nov-Feb). It was here, 4 p325, p343
with frescos of medieval

324