Page 332 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

The Drive » The prettiest
CHEMIN DE ST-JACQUES drive to Cahors is along the
D662, which runs for a scenic
Ever since the 9th century, when a hermit named but slow 75km along a dramatic
Pelayo stumbled across the tomb of the Apostle gorge carved out by the Lot
James (brother of John the Evangelist), the Spanish River. A faster alternative is via
the D13 and D653, which takes
town of Santiago de Compostela has been one of about an hour from Figeac.
Christendom’s holiest sites. The pilgrimage to Santiago
de Compostela is traditionally known as the Camino
de Santiago (Chemin de St-Jacques in French; Way of TRIP HIGHLIGHT
St James in English). Early pilgrims were inspired to 4 Cahors
undertake the arduous journey in exchange for fewer Now best known for its
years in purgatory. Today the reward is also more wine, the walled city of
tangible: walkers or horse riders who complete the final Cahors once earned a
100km to Santiago (cyclists the final 200km) qualify lucrative trade from pass-
for a Compostela Certificate, issued on arrival at the ing pilgrims. A prosper-
cathedral. The modern-day GR36 roughly follows the ous (and well-protected)
Via Podensis route from Le Puy. Find out more at www. city, Cahors also has an
webcompostella.com and www.csj.org.uk.
impressive Romanesque
cathedral, the Cathédrale
the traditional layout for town had a large hospice St-Étienne (place de la
pilgrimage churches. Also for accommodating pil- Cathédrale; h7am-6pm).
note the elegant columns, grims (later turned into Consecrated in 1119, the
decorated with scenes Figeac’s hospital, appro- cathedral’s airy nave is
from the life of Ste Foy. priately named Hôpital topped by two huge cu-
Outside, look out for St-Jacques). polas which, at 18m wide,
the tympanum (decora- Though most of are the largest in France.
tive arch) above the main Figeac’s monastic build- Some of the fres-
doorway depicting the ings were torn down cos are from the 14th
PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 30 CHEAT’S COMPOSTELA
Day of Last Judgment – a during the Revolution, a century, but the side
popular theme for Com- few still remain. On place chapels and carvings in
postela churches. Vival, there’s an arcaded the cloister mainly date
13th-century building from the 16th century.
The Drive » Backtrack north On the cathedral’s north
to the Lot River and turn left that was part of Figeac’s façade is another carved
onto the D42. Follow signs to lost abbey; it’s now home
Decazeville, then turn west onto to the tourist office. tympanum, depicting
the D840 to Figeac, just over You can pick up a Christ surrounded by
52km from Conques. leaflet called Les Clefs de fluttering angels and
la Ville (€0.30), which pious saints.
details the town’s other At the top of the old
medieval buildings. Rue city, the Tour du Pape
3 Figeac de Balène and rue Cavi- Jean XXII (3 bd Léon
During the Middle Ages, ale offer rich pickings; Gambetta) was part of a
riverside Figeac was a ma- they’re lined with 14th- 14th-century mansion
jor ecclesiastical centre. and 15th-century houses, belonging to Jacques
All the four monastic many with stone carvings Duèse, who went on to
orders (Franciscans, and open-air galleries on become Pope John XXII.
White Friars, Dominicans the top floor, once used Cahors’ medieval
and Augustinians) were for drying leather. bridge, the Pont Valentré,
established here, and the was part of the town’s
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