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Eating & Sleeping


                                       Le Pont Napoléon (%05 63 04 01 55; r/ste
          Le Puy-en-Velay 1            €62/75; pW) is one of the best places in town
                                       to dig into beautifully presented Tarn produce,
          5 Restaurant                 such as duck nestled in a bed of artichokes or
          Tournayre    Auvergnat Cuisine €€  scallops surfing an asparagus risotto. Talented
          (%04 71 09 58 94; www.restaurant-tournayre.  chef Patrick Delaroux runs occasional Saturday
          com; 12 rue Chênebouterie; mains €25; hnoon-  cooking courses (€55), from Lebanese
          1.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Wed-Sat, 12-1.30pm Sun)   food to the art of macaron-making; enquire in
          This is one of the best addresses in Le Puy for   advance via the website.
          food and form. Its atmospheric setting, within a   4 Le Moulin de Moissac   Hotel €€
          12th- to 16th-century hôtel particulier (historic   (%05 63 32 88 88; www.lemoulindemoissac.
          town house), sets the tone. But the four-course   com; 1 promenade Sancert; d €105-179, ste from
          menus will dominate conversation. Savour   €164; paW) Housed in a 15th-century grain   PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE
          seared cod or succulent lamb on the great-value   mill overlooking the Tarn, this hotel is a riverside
          lunchtime menu du marché (€29) or try the   treat. Rooms with distressed wallpaper, lovingly
          ‘Compostelle menu’, featuring scallops and   painted furniture and tall French windows
          zander with gnocchi (€42).
                                       open onto river-view balconies. The restaurant
          4 L’Epicurium     Guesthouse €
          (%06 24 41 56 10; 5 rue du Bessat; s/d/  tartare and beef in miso soup, among other
          tr incl breakfast from €58/64/99; W) This   French-Asian fusions. There’s a smart sauna-
          gastronomy-obsessed guesthouse in the city’s   spa and a romantic Jacuzzi, too.
          historic centre is Le Puy-en-Velay’s trendiest   (lunch/dinner menu €25.50/43) dishes up duck  30 CHEAT’S COMPOSTELA
          address. Its five spacious rooms have been
          freshly renovated in minimalist chic: ceilings are  Condom 6
          high, bathrooms are vast, breakfast involves a   5 La Table des
          toothsome range of fancy jams, and you can add   Gastronomy €€€
          a three-course meal of local specialities to your   Cordeliers
          stay (€18). Wooden floors are rather creaky,   (%05 62 68 43 82; www.latabledescordeliers.
          but background din is part of L’Epicurium’s   com; 1 rue des Cordeliers; menus €23-75;
          old-world charm.             hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat) Condom’s
                                       premier restaurant is run by Michelin-starred
                                       Eric Sampietro, a culinary magician known for
          Moissac 5                    seasonal ingredients assembled in surprising
                                       combinations. Tasting menus come at a price,
          5 Le Table de Nos Fils   French €€  but the adjoining bistro offers a three-course
          (www.le-pont-napoleon.com; 2 allée Montebello;   menu for just €23, with beguiling dishes such
          menus €29-45; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.30-  as ricotta-and-lobster ravioli. The setting is
          10.30pm; v) The restaurant attached to hotel   gorgeous: it’s inside a 13th-century chapel,
                                       complete with cloister garden.













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