Page 356 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)
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de l’Océan. On the way you’ll   rolled into one spectacu-  while the offshore reefs
        pass some fantastic stretches of   lar attraction. Inside the   offer some exceptional
        sand just calling for you to dip a   eye-catching building   surf for the brave.
        toe in the sea or hang ten on a   you’ll learn how the
        surfboard.                             The Drive » It’s another
                            ocean was born and   seriously traffic-clogged 7km
                            watch giant squid and   down the D810 to St-Jean de
        3 Cité de l’Océan   sperm whales do battle.  Luz. This short hop should
                                               only take 10 minutes but it
        We don’t really know   The Drive » It’s an easy 6km   rarely does! Sadly, there’s no
        whether it’s fair to call   drive down the D911 (av de   worthwhile alternative route.
        Biarritz’s new showpiece,   Biarritz) and the D810, passing
                            through the village of Bidart,
        Cité de l’Océan (%05 59   to the ocean views of pretty
        22 75 40; www.citedelocean.  Guéthary. Traffic can be awful.  TRIP HIGHLIGHT
        com; 1 av de la Plage; adult/          5 St-Jean de Luz
        child/family €11.50/7.50/39,           If you’re searching for
        joint ticket with Musée de la Mer   4 Guéthary  the quintessential Basque
        €18.50/13/63; h10am-10pm   Built onto cliffs overlook-  seaside town – with at-
        Jul & Aug, 10am-7pm Easter,   ing the ocean south of   mospheric narrow streets
        Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, shorter   Biarritz, this red-and-  and a lively fishing port
        hours rest of year), a mere   white seaside village has   pulling in large catches
        ‘museum’. At heart it’s a   gained a reputation as the   of sardines and ancho-
        museum of the ocean, but   Basque Country’s chichi   vies that are cooked up at
        in reality this is enter-  resort of choice for the jet   authentic restaurants –
     ATLANTIC COAST 32 BASqUE COUNTRY
        tainment, cutting-edge   set. The pebble beach be-  you’ve found it.
        technology, theme park   low the village offers safe   St-Jean de Luz’s
        and science museum all                 beautiful banana-shaped
                            bathing for all the family,
                                               sandy beach sprouts
                                               stripy bathing tents from
                                               June to September. The
                 DETOUR:                       beach is sheltered from
                                               Atlantic swells and is
                 SAN SEBASTIÁN, SPAIN          among the few child-
          Start: 5 St-Jean de Luz              friendly beaches in the
          Spain, and the elegant and lively city of San   Basque Country.
                                                 With plenty of bou-
          Sebastián, is just a few kilometres along the coast   tique shops, little cafes
          from St-Jean de Luz and put simply, San Sebastián
          is not a city you want to miss out on visiting. The   and pretty buildings,
          town is set around two sickle-shaped beaches, at   walking the streets of
          least one of which, Playa de la Concha, is the equal   the pedestrianised town
          of any city beach in Europe. But there’s more to the   centre is a real pleasure.
          city than just looks. With more Michelin stars per   Don’t miss the town’s
          capita than anywhere else in the world, and arguably   finest church, the Église
          the finest tapas in Spain, many a culinary expert has   St-Jean Baptiste (rue
          been heard to say that San Sebastián is possibly the   Gambetta; h8.30am-noon
          world’s best food city.              & 2-7pm), which has a
            By car from St-Jean de Luz, it’s just a short   splendid interior with
          20-minute jump down the A64 (and past an awful lot   a magnificent baroque
          of toll booths!), or you can endure the N10, which has   altarpiece.
          no tolls but gets so clogged up that it will take you a   54 p357
          good couple of hours to travel this short distance.


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