Page 392 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

DETOUR:
CHÂTEAU DE BEYNAC
Start: 4 Domme
The riverbanks of the Dordogne are lined with medieval châteaux, mostly built as
defensive fortresses during the 12th and 13th centuries. One of the most dramatic
is the Château de Beynac (%05 53 29 50 40; www.beynac-en-perigord.com; Beynac-et-
Cazenac; adult/child €8/3.50; h10am-6.30pm May-Aug, to 5pm Jan-Apr, Sep & Oct, closed Nov
& Dec), a clifftop castle 10km northwest of La Roque, protected by 200m cliffs, a
double wall and double moat. From the battlements, there’s a dizzying view over
the picture-perfect village of Beynac-et-Cazenac, which featured in the Lasse
Hallström movie Chocolat (2000), starring Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche.
There are several other châteaux to explore nearby. Situated 4.5km southwest is
the Château de Castelnaud (www.castelnaud.com/uk; Castelnaud-la-Chapelle; adult/child
€9.60/4.80; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Feb-Jun & Sep–mid-Nov, 2-5pm mid-Nov–Jan),
another quintessential castle that houses a museum of medieval warfare.
Another 4km further is the Château de Milandes (%05 53 59 31 21; www.milandes.
com; Castelnaud-la-Chapelle; adult/child €10/6.50; h9.30am-7.30pm Jul & Aug, 10am-6.30pm
Apr-Jun & Sep–mid-Nov), which was famously owned by the glamorous American
music-hall star Josephine Baker (1906–75), who bought it in 1936.

with a menagerie of comi- surrounded on every side
7 Villefranche de cal and cheeky figures. by dizzying falaises (cliffs)
Rouergue The Drive » The D922 dropping to the Aveyron
River far below.
ATLANTIC COAST 36 DORDOGNE’S FORTIFIED VILLAGES
Villefranche’s origins continues south toward Najac, The castle is reached
as a bastide are barely 23km south of Villefranche. via a steep 1.2km-long
recognisable beneath the cobbled street from place
modern roads and busy TRIP HIGHLIGHT du Faubourg, the village’s
shopping streets – it’s 8 Najac central square. It’s a mas-
only once you get right If you were searching for terpiece of military plan-
into the old town that ning: its clifftop position
they become apparent. At a film set for Camelot, meant it was practi-
the centre is the arcaded you’ve found it. Najac’s cally unassailable, and it
place Notre Dame – an- soaring hilltop castle became a key stronghold
other typical example of a (%05 65 29 71 65; adult/child during the Middle Ages.
bastide square. Nearby is €5.50/4; h10.30am-7pm Jul & Its architecture is beauti-
the square-pillared 15th- Aug, 10.30am-1pm & 3-5.30pm fully preserved, and the
century Collégiale Notre Mar-Jun, Sep & Oct) looks as if view from the central
Dame, with its never- it’s fallen from the pages keep is simply superb.
completed bell tower and of a fairy tale: slender
towers and fluttering flags
choir stalls, ornamented 4 p391
rise from the battlements,

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