Page 170 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Japan

Sunset over the
harbor at Shimoda,
on the Izu Peninsula

9 0
Izu Peninsula Nagoya
伊豆半島 名古屋 Did You Know?
! F5 ⌂ Shizuoka ! E5 ⌂ Aichi Prefecture Nagoya is the
Prefecture £ n Atami, k £ n At Nagoya JR Stn; birthplace of pachinko –
Ito, and Shuzenji Stns www.nagoya-info.jp/en the pinball machine.
A hilly peninsula with a benign A major transportation hub
climate, Izu is popular for its for the region, Nagoya is a
many hot springs. A place of pleasant and convenient, if
exile during the Middle Ages, unexciting, base. It rose to
in the early 1600s it was home prominence in the 17th for exploring. Nagoya Castle,
to the shipwrecked English­ century as a Tokaido castle built in 1610–12 and one of
man William Adams, whose town, birthplace of feudal the largest, most sophis­
story was the basis of the lords Oda Nobunaga and ticated of the Edo period,
James Clavell novel Shogun. Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Japan’s was destroyed in a bombing
Shimoda, on the southern fourth­largest city and an raid in 1945; today’s concrete
tip, became a coaling station industrial center, it was heavily reconstruc tion has a top­floor
for foreign ships in 1854, bombed in World War II. observatory and exhibitions
then opened to US traders. The city’s Me­guru one­day about the castle. The main
Today Shimoda has little of sightseeing bus pass, or a bus­ keep will be closed until 2022.
interest besides pretty gray­ and­subway pass are good A short bus ride east is the
and­white walls, reinforced Tokugawa Art Museum, with
against typhoons with superb Edo­period treasures,
crisscross plasterwork. as well as a 12th­century
Izu’s east coast is quite illus trated handscroll of the
devel oped, but the west Tale of Genji, part of which is
has charm ing coves and exhib ited each November.
fishing villages, such as Toi Reproductions of the scrolls
and Heda, offer ing delicious are on permanent display.
long­legged crabs and other
seafood. The center is also Nagoya Castle
relatively unspoiled, with " ⌂ 1-1 Hommaru § (052)
wooded mountains and 231-1700  Shiyakusho Stn
rustic hot springs, including @ Nagoya-jo Seimon-mae
Shuzenji onsen and a chain stop # 9am–4:30pm daily
of villages from Amagi
Yugashima to Kawazu. Tokugawa Art Museum
These latter were the setting " ⌂ 1017 Tokugawa-cho
for Yasunari Kawabata’s Autumn leaves framing @ Shindeki stop # 10am–
short story The Izu Dancer, the elegant architecture 5pm Tue–Sun ∑ tokugawa-
commemorated across Izu. of Nagoya Castle art-museum.jp/en
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