Page 251 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Canada
P. 251

Chinatown’s restaurants specialize in a range   Restaurants specialize in a
         of delicious cuisines, fragrantly filling the    range of delicious cuisines,
         air with the smell of hot barbecued pork     fragrantly filling the air with
                                               the smell of hot barbecued
         and aromatic noodles.                 pork and aromatic noodles.
                                                 For those seeking respite
                                               from the bustle of the streets,
                                               there is a lovely little garden
       12 "'=              13 \-=              dedicated to the charismatic
       Sir George-Etienne   Chinatown          Chinese leader Sun Yat-sen
       Cartier National                        on rue Clarke.
       Historic Site        D1   q Champ-de-Mars,
                           Place-d’Armes
        D2   ⌂ 458 Rue Notre
       Dame E   § (514) 283 2282     The name of this area has   14 '
       £ Central Station   @ 14,   become a bit anachronistic, as   Habitat 67
       715, Terminus Voyager     many of the restaurants and
                           shops in this 18-block district
       q Champ-de-Mars   # Mid-                 E3   ⌂ 2600 Av Pierre-
       Jun–Sep: 10am–5pm    are now owned by Vietnamese   Dupuy   ∑ habitat67.com
       Wed–Sun; Oct–late-Dec:   and Thai immigrants. Most
       10am–5pm Fri–Sun (26–   arrived in Mont real in the wake   This concrete architectural
                                               marvel, built on a land-filled
                           of 20th-century upheavals in
       30 Dec: daily)
                           Southeast Asia. The Chinese,   jetty just south of the Old Port
       George-Etienne Cartier    however, were here first.    section of Montreal, was
       (1814–73) was a Father of   They began arriving in large   designed by Israeli-Canadian
       Confederation and one of    numbers after 1880, along with   architect Moshe Safdie in 1967.
       the most important French-  many European immigrants.   As part of an Expo 67 pavilion,
       Canadian politicians of his   The Chinese community stuck   it was originally intended to
       day. This national historic site   together in this corner of the   deliver the benefits of sub-
       comprises two adjoining   city in an attempt to avoid   urban homes, with gardens
       graystone houses owned by   discrimination from some of   and private terraces, at an
       the Cartiers on the eastern   the town’s residents. As they   affordable cost. The idealism
       edge of the old town. One is   grew more prosperous, many   of this plan was unfortunately
       dedicated to Cartier’s career,   descendants of the first immi-  lost, but the building remains
       and here you can listen in   grants moved to the wealthier   a symbol of that concept.
       either French or English to a   areas of Montreal, leaving   Today it is a desirable – though
       good summary of the political   Chinatown to the elderly and to   expensive – apartment com-
       founding of modern Canada.  the newer arrivals. Thousands   plex, and public guided tours
         The second house focuses   return during the weekends,   of the building are available.
       on the Cartiers’ domestic life   however, filling the narrow
       as a Victorian upper middle-  streets with people shopping
       class family. Visitors can roam   for silk, souvenirs, and food.
       the formal rooms and listen
       to snatches of taped
       conversation from
       ‘‘servants’’ talking
       about their lives.













                                            The unusual cubed structure
                                            of Habitat 67, built along the
                                            banks of Saint Lawrence River
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