Page 107 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Boston
P. 107

F AR THER  AFIELD      105


       arboretum in the U.S. and                     turned her wealth
       a key resource for botanical                  to collecting art in
       and horticultural research.                   the late 19th century,
       The Arboretum also serves                     acquiring a notable
       as a park where people jog,                   collection of Old
       stroll, read, and paint.                      Masters and Italian
         The park’s busiest time is                  Renaissance pieces.
       on Lilac Sunday in May, when                  Titian’s Rape of Europa,
       tens of thousands come to                     for ex ample, is
       revel in the sight and fragrance              considered his best
       of the lilac collection, one                  painting in a U.S.
       of the largest in the world.                  museum. The eccentric
       The range of the Arboretum’s                  “Mrs. Jack” had an eye
       collections guarantees                        for her contemporaries.
       flowers from late March into                  as well. She purchased
       November, beginning with                      the first Matisse to
       cornelian cherry and forsythia.               enter an American
       Blooms shift in late May                      collection and was
       to azalea, magnolia, and                      an ardent patron of
       wisteria, then to mountain                    James McNeill Whistler
       laurel and roses in June.                     and John Singer
       Sweet autumn clematis                         Sargent. The paintings,
       bursts forth in September,                    sculptures, and
       and native witch hazel blooms   Central courtyard of the palazzo-style Isabella Stewart   tapestries are displayed
       in October and November.    Gardner Museum    on three levels around
       The Arboretum also has fine                   a stunning skylit
       fall foliage in September    5 Isabella Stewart   courtyard. Mrs. Gardner’s will
       and October.        Gardner Museum      stipulates the collection should
         A large scale model of                remain assembled in the man ner
       the Arboretum can be seen    25 Evans Way. Tel (617) 566­1401.    she originally intended. However,
       in the Visitors’ Information    MFA. Open 11am–5pm Wed–   today, blank spaces can be seen
       Center, which is just inside    Mon (to 9pm Thu). Closed Jan 1,   where thieves stole 13 price less
       the main gate.      Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & ^    works in 1990. Amongst the
                           8 Call for concert schedule.
                           ∑ gardnermuseum.org  stolen art was a rare Rem brandt,
       4 John F. Kennedy   The only thing more surprising   Storm on the Sea of Galilee, then
                                               conservatively valued at $200
       National Historic   than a Venetian palazzo on    million. A $120 million expan­
       Site                The Fenway is the collection    sion designed by Renzo Piano
                           of more than 2,500 works of    opened in 2012, providing space
       83 Beals St, Brookline. Tel (617) 566­  art inside. Advised by scholar   for special exhibitions, concerts,
       7937.  Coolidge Corner. Open late   Bernard Berenson, the strong­  educational programs, and
       May–Oct: 9:30am–5pm Wed–Sun.   willed Isabella Stewart Gardner   landscape classes.
       Closed Thanksgiving. ^ 7 8 9
       ∑ nps.gov/jofi
       The first home of the late   The Emerald Necklace
       president’s parents, this   Best known as designer of New York’s
       Brookline house saw the    Central Park, Frederick Law Olmsted
       birth of four of nine Kennedy   based himself in Boston, where he
       chil dren, including J.F.K. on   created parks to solve environmental
       May 29, 1917. Although the   problems and provide a green refuge
       Kennedys moved to a larger   for inhabitants of the 19th­century
       house in 1921, the Beals    industrial city. The Emerald Necklace
       Street residence held special   includes the green spaces of Boston
       memories for the family,    Common and the Public Garden (see
       who repurchased the house    pp48–9) and Commonwealth Avenue
       in 1966 and furnished it with   (see p95). To create a ring of parks,
       their belongings circa 1917 as   Olmsted added the Back Bay Fens (site  Jamaica Pond, part of Boston’s
       a memorial to John F. Kennedy.   of beautiful rose gardens and gateway  fine parklands
       The guided tour includes   to the Museum of Fine Arts and the
       reminiscences of J.F.K.’s mother   Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum), the rustic Riverway, Jamaica Pond
       Rose. A walking tour takes in   (sailing and picnicking), Arnold Arboretum, and Franklin Park (a golf
       other neighborhood sites   course, zoo, and cross­country ski trails). The 7­mile (11­km) swath of
       relevant to the Kennedy   parkland makes an excellent bicycle tour or ambitious walk.
       family’s early years.




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